Presidential Libraries: Repositories of History (8/2/21)

Hello everyone!

First let me say that I hope that you are all doing well, and that you’ve been having a fun (and safe) summer!


Secondly, after giving a bit of thought to the blog and with my studying abroad in England this fall (starting later this month!), i’ve decided to make no major blog posts during my duration over there, or in the very least, not until I return home in December. I feel that I would be better able to reflect on my international experiences after their conclusion. If you’re interested in the specifics of my travels while studying abroad, I recommend you tune into my facebook posts toward the end of the month.

Anyways, It’s been quite some time since my last post, and I feel somewhat moved to do another postmortem article based on my travels. What better way to do that than by revisiting the Presidential Libraries, perhaps one of the greatest legacies a President can leave behind?

Overview

Presidential Libraries are not libraries in the traditional sense, where one can check out a book. Rather, the libraries are active memorials in their own right, each hosting a museum dedicated to the life of their Presidential subjects, and to the keeping of certain items, artifacts, and memorabilia associated with that President.

Research Room at the FDR Library.


In addition, the Libraries host archives dedicated to the preservation of the personal and presidential papers of each administration, so that historians, researchers, and indeed the public can learn more about implemented policies, government affairs, and of the times in which each President served in. In more ways than one, Presidential Libraries can be considered as “Classrooms of Democracy”, and serve as ideal places to learn more about American government and society.

Each Presidential Library/Museum is unique in their own right, whether it be by their location, architecture, structure/layout, or any other personalized detail. Oftentimes you will find these libraries in towns or cities that were critical to their subjects’ personal life or career, and sometimes in close proximity to other associated presidential sites. Some are on their own sites, while others are located on college campuses, providing ample opportunities for students.

Finally, some Presidential Libraries serve as the final resting place of their Presidents, allowing visitors time to contemplate the legacies and lessons that they have tried to impart in their lifetimes.

History of the Presidential Library Concept

Before the concept of Presidential Libraries came about, the fate of Presidential documents and artifacts was both uncertain, and often detrimental.

Some papers were kept by their Presidents in their possessions, and were often damaged by the elements or lack of proper care (George Washington’s for instance, began to deteriorate in the attic of Mount Vernon from dampness and rat infestations), while other collections were destroyed by their owners (like those of Chester A. Arthur). For many of the earlier presidents, this was especially the case, not only for documents, but also for artifacts (there remains no museum or artifact collection of Zachary Taylor, who’s items have been scattered across the country in different hands).

Collection at the James A. Garfield National Historic Site, Mentor, OH

Though some debate it, the first “notion” of a Presidential Collection began with that of James A. Garfield, who served only for six months before succumbing to an assassin’s bullet. His widow, Lucretia, kept many of his belongings in the library of their home in Ohio, in an early example of an effort to “preserve” her late husband’s legacy.

Rutherford B. Hayes Library Building, Fremont, OH

The first official “Presidential Library” began with that of the Rutherford B. Hayes Library, on the ground of the Hayes estate of ‘Spiegel Grove‘, in Ohio.

Built in 1916 (after the lifetime of President Hayes), the place served to commemorate Hayes’s service by allowing space for research of his administration (as well as that of the local area and families), and would serve as a model for future Libraries to follow.

(The staff at the Hayes Library is adamant that they are the first Presidential Library, so try not to mention the Garfield or FDR sites if you happen to drop by, like we did.)

Franklin D. Roosevelt at the dedication of his Library in Hyde Park, NY. (6/31/1941)

It wasn’t until the 1930’s that the concept of a “Presidential Library” was given full thought, during the third term of Franklin D. Roosevelt. Having an abundance of papers at the end of his first two terms, Roosevelt needed a place to store them, and thus created a facility on the grounds of his estate ‘Springwood’ to serve the people in their interests in American democracy and politics.

Following the dedication of the Truman Library in 1957, it has since become a tradition for every President to establish a Presidential Library of their own after leaving office, to leave behind an active legacy for the citizens of the United States. In keeping with this trend, libraries and research centers of other earlier Presidents have also been established, ensuring that the knowledge and history of past decades is not lost to time.

Map of Libraries administered by the National Archives.

Presidential Libraries are managed by a variety of different organizations or entities. Some like the Harding Presidential Center in Ohio are managed by private foundations, while others like the Lincoln Library/Museum in Illinois are managed by the state. For the sake of this blog post however, I will be discussing the 13 Presidential Libraries (shown above) maintained by the National Archives & Records Administration (NARA).

These 13 libraries (or the “Main 13” as I like to call them) are scattered throughout the country, and cover each presidential administration from 1933 to 2009. In my travels I have managed to visit all of them, so I hope I can provide a bit of insight for each individual facility if you’re ever hoping to visit one or all of them on your own (I recommend getting the Library Passport at any of the locations, so you can get your stamp at each one)!

Herbert Hoover Presidential Library and Museum, West Branch, IA

Hoover Library Front (Me and my Library Passport).

The Hoover Library was the 4th of the “Main 13” to be established, having been dedicated in 1962 by former-President Hoover. The museum rests on the grounds of the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site in his hometown of West Branch, only several miles east of Iowa City.

The Museum covers the earliest period of Presidential History of the ‘Main 13’ (1929-1933), and offers a deeply personal view of Hoover’s life, accomplishments, and humble beginnings. In addition to serving as an excellent place to learn about Hoover (and his Waterloo: The Great Depression), the library also stores the papers of other authors, most notably those of Laura Ingalls Wilder.

Hoover Birthplace Cottage (On the grounds).
Graves of Herbert and Lou Hoover, which overlook the grounds.

Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum, Hyde Park, NY

The Franklin D. Roosevelt Library.

The first of the ‘Main 13’ to be established, the FDR Library rests on the grounds of the ‘Home of FDR National Historic Site‘ in his home of Hyde Park, covering the longest Presidential administration from 1933-1945, during the Great Depression and World War II.

Draft of “Day of Infamy” speech (with editions)

You’ll find an abundance of Roosevelt materials here, including his wheelchair, glasses, and of course, the original drafts of his most famous speeches, particularly that of his “Day of Infamy” speech.

Me and my Passport.
FDR’s Home, ‘Springwood’
Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt’s grave, in the Rose Garden.

Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum, Independence, MO

Library Front

The Truman Library in Independence was dedicated in 1959, and was the 2nd Library in the National Archives system, commemorating Truman’s service from 1945-1953. Since my visit in 2018, the Library has undergone a full renovation, so i’m eager to return sometime in the future to see what has changed!

Various events have been held here over the decades, including most notably the bill-signing ceremony of the Medicare Act in 1965 by President Lyndon Johnson. The Trumans were the very first recipients of Medicare.

Truman’s Office

Former-President Truman spent much of his retirement at his office here, only a short walk from his residence. He liked to personally manage the affairs of the library, often answering calls himself, giving tours to groups of schoolchildren, or chastising arrogant scholars that came his way.

Some relics one can find here include Truman’s World War I Army uniform, his inaugural bible, and perhaps most famously, his “The Buck Stops Here” sign.

Gravesites of Harry and Bess Truman, in the courtyard.

Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum, Abilene, KS

Eisenhower Museum Building

In the tiny town of Abilene, you’ll find the Presidential Center of Dwight D. Eisenhower, 34th President, and Supreme Allied Commander during World War II. The 3rd of the ‘Main 13’ libraries to be dedicated (though long established as a general museum before it’s official dedications in 1959 and 1962), the Eisenhower Campus serves as an excellent place to learn about Eisenhower, World War II, and the the 1950’s in general.

“Industrial Military Complex” teleprompter script.

You’ll find many artifacts spanning Eisenhower’s military and Presidential service, including the table on which D-Day was planned, his Army General uniform, and the teleprompter script of his prophetic “Industrial Military Complex” speech.

Boyhood Home

The campus also contains the boyhood home of Eisenhower and his brothers, and the residence of their parents Ida and David. Normally, it is available for tours.

The “Place of Meditation” chapel, the final resting of General and Mamie Eisenhower.
Eisenhower Gravesite

John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston, MA

Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum

Designed by world-renowned architect I.M. Pei, the Kennedy Library was posthumously dedicated in 1979, being the 6th Library of the ‘Main 13’. Overlooking Boston Harbor, it is one of the most picturesque locations for a Presidential Museum that one can find.

A Quest Completed!

Having successfully completed my quest to fill my passport with all 13 stamps, I was feeling jubilant upon visiting the JFK Library, the last for me to visit. Coincidentally, it was on May 29th 2019, on what would’ve been Kennedy’s 102nd birthday.

Glass Pavilion

The Glass Pavilion allows for quiet reflection, or in the case of musical performances, terrific acoustics.

PT-109 Coconut Paperweight

Among the most notable of Kennedy memorabilia there includes a piece of the coconut that Kennedy inscribed a rescue message upon during the PT-109 incident in World War II. He had it made into a paperweight to remind him of the experience with his army buddies.

Overlooking Boston Harbor.

Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library and Museum, Austin, TX

The LBJ Library

Situated on the Campus of the University of Texas in Austin, the LBJ Library was the 5th of the ‘Main 13’ to be formed, having been dedicated in 1971. President Johnson regularly visited during the last two years of his life to help manage its operations, and it’s still an important site for discussion of the 1960’s and of Civil Rights, of which Johnson was a key player in.

Interior Hall, looking up at the shelves of archival records.

Most of the libraries also have space for temporary/rotating exhibits. Two of the temporary ones that I remember being at the LBJ Library include one dedicated to the Beatles, and another to famous sports legends.

Johnson Inaugural Bible

Perhaps the most famous item in the library is the Inaugural Bible, which Johnson used to take the Oath of Office aboard Air Force One, following the Kennedy Assassination in 1963. As Johnson placed his faith into God’s hands, so too did the people place their faith in him.

Richard Nixon Presidential Library and Museum, Yorba Linda, CA

Library Exterior

The Nixon Library was dedicated in 1990, and was the 9th Library of the system to be created. Though the library had gone through a very partisan perspective of its content in its first years, a renovation in 2016 has mellowed out much of its controversial leanings, offering a more complete picture of the only Commander-in-Chief to resign.

Got it!
Taking a Call.

I forgot to mention that most of the libraries have replicas of the Oval Office during their respective time periods, which is always cool to see. It’s fun to compare each Oval Office look, as the littlest details, like specific hung portraits, or colors, speak leagues about the personalities of their occupants.

Library Gardens

The gardens on the site are simply stunning, especially in this pleasant climate. The library is certainly one of the more beautiful ones.

Nixon Birthplace Cottage

Richard Nixon was born in this house in 1912, amid the orchards that dotted the area. The house still remains here on the library grounds, available for tours.

Graves of Richard and Pat Nixon.

Gerald Ford Presidential Library and Museum, Grand Rapids and Ann Arbor, MI

Unique amongst the ‘Main 13’, the Library and Museum of Gerald R. Ford are actually separate from one another, in two different cities. Both were dedicated in 1981, and are (together) the 7th in the Library system (It’s more proper to say 13, rather than 14).

Library Building (Ann Arbor, MI)

The Library building, located in Ann Arbor on the grounds of the University of Michigan, hosts the presidential papers of Gerald Ford. This location is solely used for archival work.

Museum Facility (Grand Rapids, MI)

The Museum building however, is where the majority of the exhibits and artifacts are on display, along the banks of the Grand River in the city of Grand Rapids.

Though only president for a mere two years, and never elected in his own right, Ford was an honorable statesman, and made the controversial decision to pardon Richard Nixon, to help heal the nation of its’ Watergate wounds. The museum does an excellent job of revealing Ford’s humble and dutiful early life and career, especially as a Park Ranger, Eagle Scout, and his career as House Minority Leader, and as a member of the Warren Commission.

Gerald and Betty Ford Gravesite

Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum, Atlanta, GA

Another favorite of mine, the Carter Library was dedicated in 1986, and was the 8th in the NARA Library system.

Though Carter’s presidency may not have been the most successful, perhaps no other president has had as great a Post-presidency as he has had, particularly with his work through Habitat for Humanity, and through the Carter Center, his nonprofit organization that is based here at the library.

The Pond

The grounds are delightful to walk around, where one can observe the geese by the pond, or eat at the refreshing cafe at the library. And one can catch great views of the Atlanta skyline.

Carter is one of only four presidents to have ever won the Nobel Peace Prize, which he rightly earned for all his international work both during and after his presidency. To Mr. Carter, this was the greatest honor that he had ever received in his life.

Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum, Simi Valley, CA

Situated above the mountains overlooking Simi Valley, the Ronald Reagan Library was the 10th library of the NARA system, and is the largest in terms of property size (243,000 square feet). Often a favorite among history buffs (and conservatives), the Reagan Library was dedicated in 1991, and is the only place in the world that hosts a literal Air Force One plane that can be toured.

This library was where I got my Library Passport, and thus where my quest began!

Reagan’s personal Air Force One.
Berlin Wall Fragment

A piece of the Berlin Wall still stands as testament to Reagan’s successful contributions to the downfall of the Soviet Union, and that of the Berlin Wall.

Reagan Gravesite

George H.W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum, College Station, TX

Dedicated in 1997, the 11th library in the NARA system is also the first library that I had ever visited, back in 2009. Situated on the grounds of Texas A&M University in College Station, it was perhaps here that I gained a passion for visiting the libraries, and other locations would soon follow.

Reading Room

In addition to hosting learning programs for children, the library also is home to the George Bush School of Government, taking the literal meaning of a “Classroom of Democracy”.

The Pond
George Bush Family Gravesite

George H.W. Bush, the most recently deceased President, was buried here in 2018 alongside his wife Barbara, and his infant daughter Robin, a victim of Leukemia.

William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum, Little Rock, AR

Clinton Library

Bill Clinton’s library is located along the river at Little Rock, and was dedicated in 2004, the 12th of the ‘Main 13’ libraries to be created.

Museum Hall

The Library has the largest archival collection of any Presidential library, containing at least 2 million photographs, 80 million document pages, and nearly 79,000 artifacts pertaining to President Clinton, his career, and the 1990’s.

Collection of Clinton’s Saxaphones

The grounds of the library are rumored to be a potential future burial site for President Clinton and his wife Hillary, but that possibility is being kept under wraps for now.

George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum, Dallas, TX

The George W. Bush Library in Dallas is the newest of the ‘Main 13’ libraries, having been dedicated in 2013. It rests on the grounds of Southern Methodist University, and though small in size, is a fantastic facility to learn about the tumultuous events of the Bush Presidency.

George W. and Laura Bush plan to be buried on the grounds of the library when the time comes, but that may not be for the foreseeable future.

Future Libraries

Two libraries are currently in the process of either being planned or constructed.

Diorama of the Barack Obama Presidential Library and Museum in Chicago.

The Barack Obama Presidential Library and Museum will be located in Jackson Park on the south side of Chicago, and will be the 14th of the libraries in the NARA system. It will be unique in that it/s materials will be 100% digitized, though NARA will regularly loan materials to the facility (managed by the Obama Foundation) for display.

As for the Trump Presidential Library, the would-be 15th library in the system, very little is known about its current plans or organization. The most common belief is that it will be located in Florida, and will be run by members of the Trump Organization. Planning a Presidential Library takes a lot of negotiation and funding, so it remains to be seen when and where this site will be.

Conclusion

There are hardly any better places in the country to learn about the Presidents, their policies, and indeed their own personalities than their libraries, which in more ways than one continue to give back to the people. They are shrines of democracy, and memorials to the individuals who became our Commanders-in-Chief. And for those children who, like myself 12 years ago, visit these places in their youth, the potential for opportunities and inspiration are only just around the corner.

Thank you all so much for tuning in, and hopefully i’ll see you again soon!

Presidential Gravesites: A Post-mortem (6/26/21)

Hello everyone!

Two weeks have passed since the conclusion of our Virginia Trip, and it’s certainly got me reflecting on all that we’ve seen and done in the past. Notably, this trip marked the end of my quest to visit all 39 final resting places of our U.S. Presidents!

To many, I imagine that even the very notion of tracking down gravesites to visit might seem somewhat morbid (or very disconcerting), but there is a certain something about these unique landmarks that is quite telling about the lives of their subjects, or their personalities. Whether it’s in the grandiose and towering structures of the Victorian Era, or the modest, humble representations of modern times, each presidential gravesite is different from the rest in their own way, and serve as places to both pay respects to the men and their accomplishments, and learn from them in a somewhat personal manner. I started this quest (then unknowingly) in 2008 with Lyndon B. Johnson’s grave, and ended only a few weeks ago with Andrew Johnson’s (Johnson to Johnson!). Over the course of my travels, I have visited the 39 gravesites through 19 different states (counting the District of Columbia). Per state, there are:

7 in Virginia,

6 in New York,

5 in Ohio,

3 in Tennessee,

2 each in Massachusetts, Texas, and California,

1 each in Kentucky, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania, Illinois, New Jersey, Indiana, Washington D.C., Vermont, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, and Michigan.

So why don’t we reflect on the various gravesites we have visited in our travels? I’ll go in chronological order of the Presidents, from George Washington to George H.W. Bush (From George to George!).

The 39 Presidential Gravesites

1. Washington Family Tomb, George Washington’s ‘Mount Vernon‘, Fairfax County, VA (Visited 8/9/15 and 5/14/19)
Tombs of Martha Washington (Left) and George Washington (Right).

Located on the grounds of his beloved Mount Vernon plantation, our first President, George Washington, was also the first to die, being laid to rest first in a temporary tomb nearby, then relocated here into this sizable tomb befitting the “Father of our Country.”

I originally visited this hallowed site back in 2015, then again in 2019. The amount of respectful dignity conducted here is admirable, and proper. Notably during the Civil War, Mount Vernon was neutral ground for both Union and Confederate Soldiers, and all were allowed to pay homage to Washington and his monumental legacy.

2. Adams Family Crypt, United First Parish Church, Quincy, MA (Visited 5/30/21)

Both John Adams, his son John Quincy, and their wives Abigail and Louisa are buried underneath this memorial chapel in the center of Quincy, not far from Boston. Surprisingly humble for a President’s tomb (and that of a Founding Father’s), the tomb of John Adams is adorned with a U.S. Flag bearing 15 stars for the 15 states at the beginning of his Presidency.

3. Jefferson Graveyard, Thomas Jefferson’s ‘Monticello’, Charlottesville, VA (Visited 6/5/15 and 6/7/21)

The grave of Thomas Jefferson is especially notable for the epitaph written by Jefferson himself, which reads:

“Here was buried Thomas Jefferson, Author of the Declaration of American Independence, of the Statute of Virginia for Religious Freedom, and Father of the University of Virginia.”

Nowhere does it mention his service as our third President, or as our first Secretary of State. I suppose he wanted to be remembered for his “greater” accomplishments.

4. Madison Family Cemetery, James Madison’s ‘Montpelier’, Orange, VA (Visited 6/6/21)

The Father of the Constitution, James Madison is buried beside his beloved wife Dolley at his estate of Montpelier. He was the last of the signers of the U.S. Constitution to die, passing away in 1836.

5. James Monroe Tomb, Hollywood Cemetery, Richmond, VA (Visited 6/1/21)

The tomb of our fifth President, James Monroe, is quite impressive with its gothic revival “cage”, made from cast-iron. Monroe was reburied here in the 1850’s from his original resting place in New York, shortly before the start of the Civil War.

6. Adams Family Crypt, United First Parish Church, Quincy, MA (Visited 5/30/19)

Next to the tombs of John and Abigail Adams in Quincy, lies the crypt of their son, John Quincy Adams, and his wife Louisa. Having the four together in the crypt suggests a strong sense of family identity in the family. Indeed, the Adams Family has been one of the most influential political families in American History.

7. Jackson Tomb, Andrew Jackson’s ‘The Hermitage’, Nashville, TN (Visited 6/27/18 and 6/13/21)

Andrew Jackson is buried with his much beloved wife Rachel under this cupola in The Hermitage’s garden. Jackson chose this spot here so he could have a clear view from his library window. He dearly loved her, and wrote a long and glowing epitaph for her on her marker stone (right), while on his stone (left), he simply wrote: “General Andrew Jackson”.

8. Van Buren Gravesite, Kinderhook Reformed Church Cemetery, Kinderhook, NY (Visited 5/27/19)

Easily the tallest marker of this small cemetery, the grave of Martin Van Buren stands proudly, in honor of “Old Kinderhook” (or O.K., the origin of the term), one of the founders of the Democratic Party.

9. William Henry Harrison Monument, North Bend, OH (Visited 6/26/21)
Interior Tombs of President and Mrs. Harrison (not my picture).

Presidential buffs like me are well acquainted with the “Ohio Trend”, in which most Presidents that came from the “Buckeye State” died in office (4/6 in total). Those four in Ohio have tombs both grand and massive, even if some of their legacies were less than impactful. William Henry Harrison for instance, was only President for a month before he died of pneumonia, yet here stands this tall obelisk.

Unfortunately, when we came to visit, the interior tomb was closed for the day… maybe one day i’ll be able to visit it properly.

10. John Tyler’s Gravesite, Hollywood Cemetery, Richmond, VA (Visited 6/1/21)

Buried mere yards away from James Monroe (right), is the tomb of John Tyler (left), our 10th President. Notable for being the only President to die a non-U.S. citizen (due to his loyalty to the Confederacy), Confederate President Jefferson Davis afforded him a state funeral and burial here, among other distinguished Virginians and Confederates. Tyler’s coffin was draped in the Confederate Flag, and his death was never officially recognized in Washington D.C… 50 years after his death, this monolith was erected to honor Tyler.

11. Polk Tomb, Tennessee State Capitol, Nashville, TN (Visited 6/28/19 and 6/13/21)

Polk’s remains have been somewhat mobile in the time since his death. First buried in Nashville’s Public Cemetery (during the 1849 Cholera Epidemic), he was then buried at Polk Place, the estate of his and his wife Sarah’s. When Polk Place was torn down, their remains were moved here to the grounds of the State Capitol, where they have remained since.

In recent years, some proposals had been made to transfer his remains to nearby Columbia, where his House Museum is, but none have come to fruition.

12. Taylor Tomb, Zachary Taylor National Cemetery, Louisville, KY (6/27/21)

General and 12th President Zachary Taylor was buried here, on what was originally the Taylor Family Estate. Now, the National Cemetery that bears his name hosts veterans from almost all of the wars the U.S. has participated in.

13. Fillmore Gravesite, Forest Lawn Cemetery, Buffalo, NY (Visited 6/23/18)

While not a great president (or a memorable one at that), Fillmore was certainly a major figure in Buffalo History, even helping to found the University of Buffalo.

14. Pierce Gravesite, Old North Cemetery, Concord, NH (Visited 5/28/19)

Poor Franklin Pierce lived a tragic life… none of his children survived to adulthood (with one, Benny, dying in a train crash on the way to the inauguration), his religious wife blaming his political career for this, and then his severe alcoholism… one would feel sorry for him, and maybe even sympathy for him, despite his poor administration. At least they are buried here together, once and for all.

15. Buchanan Gravesite, Woodward Hill Cemetery, Lancaster, PA (Visited 5/20/19)

Poor James Buchanan is ranked often as one of our worst Presidents, for his failure to ease pre-Civil War tensions. Being the only lifelong bachelor President, he is buried alone here in Woodward Hill, surrounded by many weathered and tipped gravestones. History is often unkind posthumously…

16. Lincoln Tomb, Oak Ridge Cemetery, Springfield, IL (Visited 6/16/19)

Lincoln’s tomb is indeed grand, but perhaps befitting for the man who saved the Union. Many history buffs make pilgrimages here to pay their respects to the “Railsplitter” and the “Great Emancipator”.

Lincoln’s actual tomb (Interior)

Following a very lengthy funeral route via train throughout many major cities on the way to Springfield, Lincoln was buried first in a temporary vault in the cemetery, then nearby the current monument. To prevent further attempted grave robberies (at least two occurred), he was buried underneath 10 feet of concrete, and this simple but unique marker. Also buried here is his wife Mary, and three of their four sons who never lived to adulthood (Robert Todd Lincoln, the eldest, is buried in Arlington National Cemetery).

17. Johnson Family Plot, Andrew Johnson National Cemetery, Greeneville, TN (Visited 6/10/21)

Andrew Johnson’s resting place atop Monument Hill was the last on my list of Presidential Gravesites to visit! It was oddly gratifying.

Andrew Johnson was buried draped in an American Flag, with a copy of the U.S. Constitution as his pillow. A strict constitutional constructionist, Johnson was loyal above all else to his interpretation of the founding document, rather than bipartisanship with his opponents in Congress. (Ignore the workers who are doing restoration work on the graves).

A Quest Completed.
18. Grant’s Tomb, New York City, NY (Visited 3/14/18)
Tomb Interior

The largest mausoleum in North America, the General Grant National Memorial in Uptown New York honors the achievements of the Union’s most famous general, and our 18th President, Ulysses S. Grant. The interior took heavy inspiration from the layout of Napoleon’s Tomb in France, and the grandiosity in this tomb is more attributed to the Victorian expectations of memorialization in death than from the humble Grant’s wishes.

While on a school trip with my high school theatre group, my dad and I managed to snag enough time to visit.

19. Hayes Tomb, Spiegel Grove Estate, Fremont, OH (Visited 6/21/18)

Spiegel Grove is the lovely estate of 19th President Rutherford B. Hayes, and amid the fresh air of the trees, you’ll find his tomb as well. To be fair, I would want to be buried in a place like this too. Hayes, an exception to the “Ohio Trend” of Presidential Gravesites, has a much more modest final resting place.

It simply amazes me that James A. Garfield, who was only in office for a few months before succumbing to an assassin’s bullet, managed to get this multi-story monument in his name. I suppose Presidents who die in office get all the posthumous glory.

In the crypt of the monument, you’ll find the actual coffins of the Garfields. As far as I know, these are the only caskets of a President and a First Lady that you can actually view (though I did see the coffin of President Bush Sr. during his funeral procession in College Station).

Chester A. Arthur Gravesite, Albany Rural Cemetery, Menands, NY (Visited 5/27/19)

Yet another obscure President, Chester A. Arthur’s grave is rather somber, particularly with the statue of an angel watching over him. Curiously, his grave dates his birth being in 1830, when in actuality it was in 1829. The reasons for this are unknown, for little remains of Arthur’s legacy.

22. and 24. Grover Cleveland Gravesite, Princeton Cemetery, Princeton, NJ (Visited 5/22/19)

Grover Cleveland is the only President to serve two nonconsecutive terms, thus he is our 22nd and 24th President. Thankfully, he has only one gravesite, which is here in Princeton Cemetery, not far from the grave of the infamous Aaron Burr. It’s rather simple, and surrounded by his family.

If you look closely above his name, you can spot the hourglass which Cleveland insisted on, as he considered punctuality to be very critical to a successful life.

23. Harrison Family Plot, Crown Hill Cemetery, IN (Visited 6/17/18)

Buried with his family is Benjamin Harrison, grandson of William Henry Harrison, in the second-from-left plant-covered plot in front of the family marker. Other notable burials in Crown Hill Cemetery (the 6th largest cemetery in the U.S.) include three vice-presidents, and gangster John Dillinger.

25. McKinley Memorial, Canton, OH (Visited 6/25/18)
McKinley Tomb (Interior)

While many people remember Canton as the “Birthplace of Football”, Presidential enthusiasts like myself remember it as the hometown of President William McKinley.

Another “Ohio Trender”, McKinley led the country during the Spanish American War, only to be gunned down by an anarchist in Buffalo. In addition to visiting a site of such historical significance, it also serves as a great place for the local community to exercise on the lengthy stairs.

Located on Long Island, not far from his home at Sagamore Hill, Theodore Roosevelt and his wife Edith are entombed. It’s surprisingly humble, especially for a man of his “larger than life” achievements and reputation.

27. Taft Gravesite, Arlington National Cemetery, Arlington, VA (Visited 8/9/15 and 5/14/19)

William Howard Taft is known more for trivia facts about him (need I mention the bathtub incident?) than his actual accomplishments, but that’s a real shame, especially with his later service as Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.

Arlington National Cemetery is one of only three places where more than one president is buried (the others being Quincy’s United First Parish Church and Richmond’s Hollywood Cemetery).

28. Wilson Tomb, Washington National Cathedral, Washington D.C. (Visited 5/17/19)

The only President buried in our nation’s capital, Woodrow Wilson is entombed here with his second wife Edith. There’s something about being surrounded by colorful stained glass windows that makes this religious tomb quite contemplative. I certainly recommend visiting the Cathedral if you get the chance, its’ very impressive.

The last of the “Ohio Trend” Presidents, Warren G. Harding’s only request was that he be buried outside. That being said, after his unexpected death while in office in 1923, they decided to go to the extreme and built this large romanesque memorial for him and his wife. Of course, it was only shortly after its’ completion that word of Harding’s extramarital affairs and corrupt dealings became known. Oops.

30. Coolidge Family Plot, Plymouth Notch Cemetery, Plymouth, VT

Up in the gorgeous hills of Vermont, in the tiny hamlet of Plymouth Notch, you’ll find the gravesite of Calvin Coolidge, otherwise known as “Silent Cal”. Born on July 4th, Coolidge’s grave is very unassuming, with only the top seal indicating that he was President.

Also, I apologize looking somewhat uncomfortable in that pic. It was raining, and we wanted to pay our respects quickly.

31. Hoover Gravesite, Herbert Hoover National Historic Site, West Branch, IA (Visited 6/15/18)

Adhering to his Quaker roots, Herbert Hoover is buried under simple Vermont Marble, and the site casts a widespread view around the hills where Hoover used to play as a boy. From this spot, one can spot his birthplace cottage across the creek, indicating a life of full circle back to the land and roots from which he came.

32. Roosevelt Rose Garden, Home of FDR National Historic Site, Hyde Park, NY (Visited 5/26/19)

Franklin D. Roosevelt, Champion of the New Deal and President of the United States during the Great Depression and World War II, is buried here in the rose garden of his home Springwood. Buried with him is his wife and First Lady Eleanor, an extraordinary and highly-lauded stateswoman in her own right.

It’s interesting that some presidents with meager accomplishments get the greater tombs, while those with more significant achievements have more humble final resting places… makes you think.

Harry S. Truman, the honest and folksy President from the town of Independence, is buried in the central courtyard of his Presidential Library. It’s quite peaceful there, and the list of his accomplishments is quite impressive.

Burial Site of Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower

Contemplative stained glass windows adorn the burial place of General Dwight D. Eisenhower, his wife Mamie, and their newborn son Doud, who didn’t survive childhood. Eisenhower is a greatly admired man, and here, on the grounds of his childhood home, one is allowed to reflect on the American Heartlands, and of the ideal that anyone can grow up to be anybody.

35. John F. Kennedy Gravesite, Arlington National Cemetery, Arlington, VA (Visited 8/9/15 and 6/14/19)

Forever engraved in the memory of the nation for his ideals and charisma, John Fitzgerald Kennedy’s flame of inspiration burns brightly in the form of his eternal flame. Though horrifically slain in Dallas (a memory still vivid in the minds of those who can remember it), here he rests in the quiet solitude of the hill, overlooking Washington D.C.

Countless people every year pay homage to him, his equally famous wife Jacqueline, and two of their children at their plot. The unbroken silence commanded on that hill leaves one awestruck… the amount of respect that people have for him is enough to warrant that.

36. Johnson Family Cemetery, Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park, Stonewall, TX (Many Visits). (Not my Pic)

Being the first Presidential Gravesite I’ve ever visited (back in 2008), I always have fond memories of the LBJ Ranch out in the Hill Country, the region of Texas where I grew up. Made of red granite found exclusively in Texas, the graves of Lyndon B. Johnson and his wife Lady Bird (my favorite First Lady in case you didn’t know) are the tallest in the private family cemetery.

Me, in 2008, visiting the Cemetery from a distance. Lady Bird, who had recently passed away the previous year, has flowers over her grave, later to be replaced by her permanent stone.

Because of his Hill Country background, I can sympathize and relate more to LBJ than most other Presidents, and it’s great to have someone who grew up in poverty here rise to become President of the United States. That is a very encouraging thought.

37. Nixon Gravesite, Richard Nixon Presidential Library & Museum, Yorba Linda, CA (Visited 6/20/17)

One of our more controversial presidents in recent times, Richard Nixon and his wife Pat rest under simple black gravestones. Whatever your stance on Nixon might be, the Library and gardens are very beautiful, and Nixon’s final resting place is only a few yards away from his birthplace cottage. Another life of full-circle. His gravestone reads:

“The greatest honor History can bestow is the title of Peacemaker”.

38. Ford Gravesite, Gerald Ford Presidential Museum, Grand Rapids, MI (Visited 6/18/18)

One of the most humble and honorable men to have ever graced the Oval Office, Gerald R. Ford and his wife Betty are buried here near their library in downtown Grand Rapids. The site is so unassuming, that one might not realize it is here that they are buried, alongside the Grand River.

40. Reagan Gravesite, Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Museum, Simi Valley, CA (Visited 6/21/17)

High up in the mountains near Simi Valley, you’ll find the Reagan Library, the largest of the 13 libraries in terms of land size. You’ll also find the final resting place of President Reagan and his wife Nancy, overlooking the mountainous landscape below… it’s quite a beautiful place… And as read on his memorial marker:

“I know in my heart that man is good,

That what is right will always eventually triumph,

And there is purpose and worth to each and every life.”

41. Bush Family Gravesite, George H.W. Bush Presidential Library & Museum, College Station, TX (Too many visits to count).

Also in Texas, you’ll find the final resting place of George H.W. Bush, father to fellow President George W. Bush. Bush Sr. was the most recent President to die (in 2018), and was laid to rest here alongside his wife Barbara and his young daughter Robin (who died of Leukemia).

I have visited this site many times over the years, the first in 2009 (before George or Barbara passed away), and again several times afterwards. The pictures above was from my most recent visit in 2019. The grass over Bush’s grave was still freshly laid it seems.

And those are the current 39 Presidential Gravesites!

Six Presidents are still alive today, Jimmy Carter, Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, Barack Obama, Donald Trump, and Joe Biden.

To the best of our knowledge, Carter plans to be buried near his house in Plains, GA, Clinton “supposedly” has a burial place set aside at his Presidential Library in Little Rock, AR (though not confirmed), and Bush plans to be buried at his library in Dallas, TX. It is currently unknown where Obama, Trump, and Biden plan to be buried.

After 14 years, I have finally completed this quest, and in all honesty, I have learned much about not only our Commanders in Chief as individuals, but also of the times that they lived in. It has also taught me that gravesites in general are quite telling of the life that one has led, and what is important to remember. The line in between birth and death on a gravestone is symbolic of an entire life, after all.

But above all, it has made me realize that it is important to cherish life as much as we can. Not just to enjoy it, but also to truly experience it. To relish it. And it’s important to ask ourselves what we want to leave behind in this world when we are gone, and how we want to be remembered.

Thank you for joining me for this moment of reflection. It’s been quite the journey, and I only hope that we have many more in the future, together.

Day 15: Home Once Again (Nashville, TN to New Braunfels, TX) (6/14/21)

And so, our two-week history trip has finally come to an end…

From Richmond to Nashville, we have traversed the landscape and many historic sites to learn more about our presidents, our heritage, and indeed, our own democracy. And this journey has been such a treasure to be on, especially with being stuck for the last year or so.

Before we wrap things up though, let’s revisit Ryman Auditorium in Nashville briefly! I won’t go over too many specifics since i’ve been here before, so if you’d like more information about it acquired from my first visit, i recommend checking out my post from last time!

Ryman Auditorium (2018)

With that said, let’s check it out.

Ryman Auditorium

Ryman Auditorium is sometimes considered the “Birthplace” or “Church” of Country Music. Formerly called the Union Gospel Tabernacle, built in 1892, the building would soon come to host many distinguished guest speakers, plays, shows, and of course, musicians. And more famous than anything else, it was home to the Grand Ole Opry.

Ryman Auditorium
Interior

The building is said to possess one of the best acoustics of any auditorium in the country! Combined with the stained-glass windows, its’ no wonder why many performers love to come here to play, and pay homage to its’ history.

Speakers such as Theodore Roosevelt and Booker T. Washington have spoken here. Actors and actresses like Katherine Hepburn and Helen Hayes have put on grand performances in productions here. And singers and musicians like Bill Monroe, Jimmy Dickens, Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton, and countless others have all contributed to the special significance of this hallowed ground.

With our early tour, we had more than enough time to retreat to the airport, and fly back home!

Wow.. now that I look back on all of it, we did so much on this trip… especially on action-packed days like Fredericksburg, we’ve been busy at it for two weeks. And we’ve learned so much too.

From the heights of the Smoky Mountains, to the riverside plantations by the James River… from the beginnings of our country in Williamsburg and Jamestown, to the monuments to the music that helped shape our culture… these sites truly tell many diverse stories about our American landscape and heritage, and stories heard nowhere else…

And so too have we met topics on this trip with great controversy or contradictions… Truly our American story has been wrought with difficulty, hardship, and indeed, severe confliction of ideals and truths. But as we stop to consider these very debated moments or concepts from our history, we understand that despite the unpleasantness or discomfort that it may bring, it is still for us to remember, and learn from.

I have stated plenty of times in the past that history is every bit as crucial to us as before. We are born from it, forged by it, and always tied to it. And we, the writers of the future when we are gone, and the witnesses to those who came before us with their own histories (not so different from our own), are responsible to ensure that they will remain in memory.

Through meaningful and civil discourse, and respectful reflection, we can hope to do just that.

Thank you all for once again travelling with us to the end. I might occasionally post some reflections or other extra content, so I hope you’ll stick around in the future.

Cheers.

Day 14: Revisiting Nashville (Nashville, TN) (6/13/21)

Hello everyone, and welcome to the penultimate post of our 2021 Virginia Trip!

Here we’ll spend a bit of time getting reacquainted with Nashville, and that includes Andrew Jackson’s “Hermitage” plantation, the Country Music Hall of Fame, and the grounds of the Tennessee State Capitol! As I have covered these things before in my blog, I’ll try not to delve too deeply into the nitty-gritty again, and instead provide links to my previous posts that covered them.

Andrew Jackson’s “The Hermitage”

Capitol, Ryman, and Hall of Fame

But let’s go ahead and see what we’re able to!

Andrew Jackson’s “The Hermitage”

Back at The Hermitage, we managed to catch an interesting event…

The Hermitage, adorned with black mourning drapes.

Since President Jackson (sorry, “General”, he preferred to be called that way) died on June 6th, 1845, the home was draped in black mourning cloth from the top balcony. As this was still the week of observance for that occasion, the tourguides had black armbands on their arms to signify that occasion. In addition, the curtains of his bedroom windows inside the mansion were closed, and a black cloth hung over the mirror (it was a bad omen if you were next to look into a mirror that has witnessed death, or as the Victorian Era held).

Backside of the Mansion.

If you remember from my last time here, I mentioned that the pillars are actually made of wood, and painted to look like stone.

The fields are still quite expansive (and scorching hot too!)
Wild Turkeys again!

They give carriage rides now!? Since when!?

This field was near where I chased those turkeys from last time. That’s a lot of corn!

The garden, still as beautiful as ever.

Tomb of Andrew and Rachel Jackson

I think they did some restoration work on the tomb since we were here last! The top of the cupola is less rusted now, and the stone looks a lot cleaner!

Country Music Hall of Fame

The Hall of Fame

Now that I notice it, those windows look like piano keys! I wonder why I didn’t notice it last time?

Main Exhibit Hall

We were all very excited to view the exhibits again, especially since we were on a short time frame last time. It was a great place to bring back memories, and also learn about new ones! Mom loved touring the exhibits with us, especially as this was her first time.

Elvis’s Gold-plated Cadillac

It’s still surreal to remember that this car is plated in gold, covered in the sheen of crushed diamonds and seashells, and has a backseat TV, record-player, and refrigerator… Presley certainly had “opulent” tastes.

George Strait Plaque in the Hall of Fame Rotunda

Being Texans, we’re proud George Strait fans!

Tennessee State Capitol

Before we walked around the Capitol, we visited a historical marker that happened to be right next to our hotel! And this is one we actually missed last time!

Site of Polk Place

This marker was the site of the now-demolished “Polk Place”, the last home of President James K. Polk and his wife Sarah!

Though Polk died at the home only a month after moving in, Sarah lived here as a widow for 42 years, before passing away. Initially buried here, the two were relocated to the State Capitol Grounds a mere two blocks away.

Tennessee State Capitol

The Tennessee State Capitol was finished in 1859, and is one of the few state capitol buildings in the U.S. without a dome.

Tennessee Liberty Bell Replica

Tennessee’s Replica of the Liberty Bell, which we saw on our last trip. Though much of the grounds were torn up and surrounded by scaffolding, we were able to take a picture.

Andrew Jackson’s Equestrian Statue

This equestrian statue of Andrew Jackson is nearly identical to the ones located in Lafayette Park in Washington D.C., and the one in Jackson Square in New Orleans, where he won that famous battle in the War of 1812.

Tomb of James K. Polk

Having visited his museum in Columbia, visiting Polk’s tomb again has much more significance now…

There have been some motions in recent times to move his tomb to Columbia to be interred at that museum, in order to somewhat honor his stipulation in the will that he be buried at Polk Place. The movement has been met with often fierce opposition, and as of now, the tomb will remain here.

Tennessee Musical Monument

Tennessee’s Musical Monument commemorates the different types of music that flourished throughout it’s history, including Blues, Gospel, Bluegrass, Classical, Rock & Roll, and Jazz.

Tennessee War Memorial

Thinking I was in Ancient Rome for a moment, we explored this War Memorial, dedicated to Tennessee’s lost sons.

With an impressive statue in the middle, and the names of thousands of soldiers honored on the walls around, it was a very nice memorial to accidentally stumble across.

View of the State Capitol from the War Memorial.

Dang… is it already the end of the post?

I suppose it is, because by the time the final post is published, I will already be back home in Texas! I’ll be sure to offer you a brief recap of our revisit of Ryman Auditorium, before offering a post-mortem of this entire trip, and reflecting on the lessons that we have learned from it…

Thank you all for tuning in to the end… its’ your support that make me so grateful to be able to share our experiences with you.

I’ll see you next time. 🙂

Day 13: Poking Around with Polk (Pigeon Forge, TN to Nashville, TN) (6/12/21)

Welcome back!

It’s hard to believe that the day after tomorrow, we’ll be safely back home in Texas…

But we’re following through with our plans! Today let us explore the James K. Polk Presidential Home & Museum, before arriving at our final destination: Nashville!

James K. Polk Presidential Home & Museum

Situated an hour south of Nashville is the town of Columbia, former hometown of our 11th President, James Knox Polk. Considered by historians to be one of our more underrated presidents, very few places remain today with the Polk signature. With most of his homes having been torn down, the only two remaining residences associated with him today are the White House, and this modest home.

James K. Polk Home

Granted, Polk never actually owned this house. It was built in 1816 (the oldest two-story house in town) by his father Samuel Polk, and James (or Jimmy if you will) returned here after graduating from the University of North Carolina in 1818, living here for only 6 years.

Polk Boxwood Gardens

This house is rather unique from other presidential homes however. Rather than being made to look like it did when Polk lived here, various Polk artifacts from throughout his lifetime (the largest such collection anywhere) are displayed here as a form of memorial tribute to him and his wife Sarah. Many of these artifacts and furnishings come from their Nashville (and last) home “Polk Place”, which was torn down in 1900.

Polk Fountain (recovered from Polk Place).

Some presidents, like Polk, have only singular historic sites to their names… its’ a shame, but it certainly highlights their importance into learning more about their subjects.

Bust of Andrew Jackson

Polk, a Jacksonian democrat, followed the principles and ideals of President Andrew Jackson devoutly. That meant strict constitutional constructionism, free-market economics, patronage, expanded-suffrage, and of course, expansion west. Polk was so well known as Jackson’s “protege”, that he became known as “Young Hickory”, the heir to “Old Hickory” (as Jackson was known).

Polk Campaign Ribbons

Despite having previously been both Governor of Tennessee and Speaker of the U.S. House of Representatives, Polk was a “dark-horse” candidate for the Presidential Election of 1845, who’s surprise appearance on the 9th ballot led to his party’s nomination, and later his victory in the General Election against Henry Clay, the whig candidate (who tried to run at least five different times to be president).

Polk was what we might call today a “workaholic”. Often working sixteen hours a day (with almost no recreation time), Polk was perhaps our hardest-working president, who micromanaged everything during his administration (to the consternation of his cabinet and poor health).

Polk’s Inaugural Bible

Polk made his oath on this bible, just as he did to the people. He swore that he would accomplish four goals in his administration: 1) Acquire the Oregon Territory from the British. 2) Acquire California from Mexico. 3) Lower tariffs, and 4) Establish an independent treasury. In addition, he vowed to only serve a single four-year term. And he accomplished all of those promises.

Wanting to acquire more territory through ANY means necessary, Polk sent troops to scour the Rio Grande River (the border of the newly annexed Texas) to patrol for Mexican incursions (in other words, to look for a fight). When those troops ventured on to Mexican soil, resulting in a brief skirmish against Mexican troops, Polk was given a good-enough excuse to go to war. The Mexican-American War would last for only two years, with the United States emerging victorious, gaining much of our present day territory from Mexico.

Various Polk Artifacts in the Parlor

Interesting tabletop gift from Tunisia… if only they got the bald-headed eagle right.

Polk, from the time he became President.
Older Polk, more aged.

Want to know the scary part? There’s only a two-year time difference between those two portraits. The Presidency ages you…

Perhaps it can be said that it was the exhaustion from his work that killed him. Always sickly, even as a child, he lived only three months after leaving office before he caught cholera in New Orleans, dying at Polk Place in 1849, at only 53.

Sarah Childress Polk

While Polk may have been an introverted, often bland sort of individual, his wife Sarah was perhaps one of the best White House hostesses we’ve had, with her very genial and friendly demeanor, and equally sharp mind. In addition, she was her husband’s campaign manager, and supported him wherever he was, or with whatever he did. Polk was not an affectionate man, but their love was certainly mutual.

The Dining Room

As one might guess from his work-ethic, Polk ate food for fuel, rather than enjoyment (contrary to his wife Sarah). Besides corn pone, a common southern staple, there’s little to no other record of what he liked to eat.

Various plates from the Polk White House China Set, inlaid with various Tennessee wildflowers.
Polk’s Mother, Jane.

Jane Polk was the mother of President Polk and his nine other siblings. With the Victorian Era tradition of wearing black in mourning (as our guide noted), you can tell that things were not going well for her. She outlived her husband and seven of her children (many dying young, including James, who she outlived by two years).

A fierce Presbyterian, she tried to have her son baptized under that faith as well on his deathbed (he was never formally baptized due to a… “disagreement” between the preacher and Polk’s father). Polk decided instead, to his mother’s horror, to be baptized as a Methodist, shortly before he died.

Polk’s Travel Trunk. Can you make out the pictures of James and Sarah on top?

Called the “Napoleon of the Stump”, Polk was a skilled orator, and won many victories on the speaking circuits in Tennessee.

On an unrelated note, Polk owned nearly 25 slaves in the course of his lifetime, most of them working on other plantation properties. One property in Mississippi was considered to have had one of the highest death rates of slaves in the South… In addition, Polk downplayed the question of slavery in the new territories, only briefly delaying the brewing conflicts that would lead to Civil War…

Upstairs Bedroom
Older Sarah Polk

Sarah would live on for 42 years after her husband’s death, passing in 1891 at the age of 87. Residing at Polk Place to preserve his legacy, she would raise a great-niece (also named Sarah), and wear black the rest of her life. During the Civil War, Polk Place was considered neutral ground, and both Confederate and Union generals (as well as later Presidents) would pay respectful calls to her there.

Picture of Polk Place (with Polk Tomb on right), now demolished.

Polk Place would not remain long in Sarah (the younger)’s hands after her caretaker’s death. Over 50 Polk residents contested possession of Polk Place, as Mrs. Polk was never officially recognized as the caretaker of the younger Sarah. In the end, young Sarah preserved most of the furniture (much of which is on display in the museum today), the Polk Tomb was moved to its current location on the grounds of the Tennessee State Capitol, and Polk Place was sold to a developer, who then tore it down. It’s a grievous loss of such a historic site… tomorrow, we’ll see both the tomb and the former site of Polk Place.

Despite Polk’s many accomplishments, and his relatively higher ranking in terms of effective presidents (often considered to be the only strong president between Jackson and Lincoln), very few actual sites are able to interpret his legacy in a substantial way… and that makes the support of these singular sites very important so these stories can continue to be passed down.

After all, even fewer people remember him today, none can deny his impact on the American Landscape. The country gained over 1,000,000 square miles of Texas, California, Oregon, and other formerly-Mexican territories, a new independent Treasury free from corporate influence, the Smithsonian Institute for the benefit of exploration and learning, and the greatly increased power of the chief executive.

It’s because of “Young Hickory” that we have to thank for this. And its’ the stories that these museums tell that are important to preserving and remembering the impact of our history.

A couple of blocks away, we stopped by nearby Greenwood Cemetery to pay our respects to the Polk family.

Polk Family Plot

This cemetery contains the graves of Polk’s parents, and seven of his siblings. President and Mrs. Polk are buried up at the capitol in Nashville.

Jane Polk (left) and Samuel Polk (right)

This cemetery has seen better days… a number of the tombs and graves in the cemetery were tipped over, cracked, or in serious danger of losing their history. It pains me to see cemeteries like this… I hope they’re able to do more restoration work on it soon.

And so, we continued on to our final destination of the trip… Nashville. To think that it was two weeks ago when we touched down in Richmond…

We only did a brief bit of sightseeing, and drove down some of the streets that we did back in our 2018 trip…

The parthenon (

The Parthenon of Nashville was built in 1897 for the Tennessee Centennial Celebration, and is an exact replica of the Parthenon in Greece (at least when it it was in its prime). Now it serves as a performing arts center, and an art gallery.

The Nashville Skyline
Broadway Street

Broadway Street, as usual, was filled with the loud noises of people bustling, music playing, and neon lights glaring. I’ll only say this: social distancing was taken as a mere suggestion here.

Anyways, it seems that most of the rest of the trip involves us revisiting some of our favorite places in Nashville. Next time for instance, we revisit Andrew Jackson’s The Hermitage, the Country Music Hall of Fame, and the Tennessee State Capitol! As i’ve shown these things before on my blog (though this time with mom), i’ll likely only make it a brief post with photo highlights. Still, i’m anxious to see what’s changed, and what’s different!

And with that, I release you from this daily post. Take care!

Day 12: Sojourn in the Smokies (Gatlinburg, TN to Pigeon Forge, TN) (6/11/21)

Hello again y’all!

Welcome to perhaps the shortest post of the trip! Let’s take a break from history, and do a bit more sightseeing around the Great Smoky Mountains, shall we?

First, let’s do some more hiking in the National Park!

Grotto Falls Trail

A snail, barely larger than a silver dollar.
Grotto Falls!

You would not believe the mist that was coming from the waterfall… thus revealing one of the downsides of wearing glasses.

Along the river road.
In view of the Smokies.
Path up to Clingman’s Dome, tallest point in Tennessee (6,643 ft.)
No wonder they called them the “Smoky Mountains”…
Looking up at the Clingman’s Dome Observation Deck

View from the deck.

Although I imagine the view stretches much farther on a less foggy (or smoky) day, it does add a bit of mystic quality to the landscape… who know’s what’s out there, waiting to be discovered?

After finishing our tour of the National Park, we retreated north to Pigeon Forge, which like Gatlinburg is a resort city filled with many sorts of attractions, amusement parks, malls… you name it.

(For the record, not my photo.)

It’s certainly a tourist destination comparable to Las Vegas or even Disney World, with its most famous attraction being “Dollywood”, country singer Dolly Parton’s theme park. Though not typically my cup of tea, we did decide to dabble a bit in this destination.

First we saw the largest Titanic Museum in the world!

The Titanic Museum

It’s called the “Titanic Museum at Pigeon Forge”. Didn’t see that one coming.

Unfortunately, because the exhibits in there are under Federal Copyright Law, I was not able to take any photos inside… so contrary to my last post, i’m afraid I’m unable to show you anything here. I’ll try to describe it to the best of my ability.

When you walk in, you’re given a card telling you the name of a particular passenger of the Titanic, their background, and their goals or aspirations for when they would get to New York City. The museum takes you through various exhibits designed like the interior rooms of the ship, including the second and first-class levels, the Grand Staircase, and the bow of the ship. With audio wands, you’re able to punch in particular numbers to listen to more informations, as you weave throughout the rooms viewing the various artifacts (some extremely rare, including photos, a letter written on the Titanic stationary, and the violin of the lead band-member who’s band went down with the ship, playing to the last.

At the end of the museum, you enter the memorial room, where you learn if your passenger survived, or perished during the sinking. It’s quite a personal, but very engaging experience. I certainly recommend it.

The Hatfield & McCoys Dinner Feud

You’ll find many entertainment venues and dinner shows in Pigeon Forge. Being in Eastern Tennessee, the most appropriate of these was the Hatfield & McCoys Dinner Feud, hosting regular shows with “all-you-can-eat” southern food.

With fried chicken, pulled pork, corn-on-the-cob, mashed potatoes, and a marvelous creamy stew, we had a great time laughing our heads off at the ongoing clashes between the two feuding families, featuring musical numbers, special-effects, and hilarious comedy.

So it seems that that was our day! It was a nice change of pace from the hustle and bustle of history sites… But we’re right back in next time, as we visit the James K. Polk Museum in Columbia, before arriving in Nashville!

To think that only three more blog posts remain to cover this trip… either way, hope to see you next time!

Day 11: The End of a Quest (Bull’s Gap, TN to Gatlinburg, TN) (6/10/21)

Well… here we are once again, in this latest blog post.

Today marks the completion of my long quest to visit every single presidential gravesite, a goal that’s taken me all across the country to visit the final resting places of our 39 deceased commanders-in-Chief. And it all ended in Greeneville, Tennessee, the home of Andrew Johnson, our 17th president.

Let’s journey to Greeneville, and take a little time to unwind in the wilderness afterwards, shall we?

Andrew Johnson National Historic Site

Situated in the easternmost portion of Tennessee, rests the interesting town of Greeneville (if you ever visit, be sure to spell it as Greeneville, not Greenville. The townsfolk will “kindly” remind you that). Most know it today of course, as being the home of President Andrew Johnson.

Johnson is generally credited as being one of our lowest-ranked presidents in the country’s history, yet around Greeneville, he’s often considered the “favorite son”.

Main Street Banner
Andrew Johnson Statue

Here you’ll find the Andrew Johnson Bank, the Andrew Johnson Inn, the Andrew Johnson Highway, and of course, his National Historic Site, which preserves his homestead, various related artifacts of him, and the National Cemetery where he is buried.

Born in 1808, in Raleigh, North Carolina, Johnson and his brother would both become apprentice tailors, before running away to Tennessee to stake out their own paths.

Johnson’s actual Tailor Shop

And so, Johnson would become known in Greeneville as “A.Johnson, Tailor”. Skilled in his trade, Johnson would sew, while his wife Eliza would teach him to read and write (he never had any form of formal education). The shop also served as a center for talking politics, and when some people suggested that he should run for office, Johnson did just that.

Tailor Shop (Interior)

Johnson, always supporting the common man and worker, was elected to the U.S. House of Representatives, where his blunt and wounding form of speaking would lead to the gerrymandering (erasing) of his district. He then was elected as Governor of Tennessee however, and issued many appeals and reforms for the “common-man”, idealizing the populist mantras of fellow Tennessee native, Andrew Jackson.

Wedding coat made by Johnson; various tailor tools

Later, while serving in the U.S. Senate, the southern states, including his home state, seceded from the Union. Johnson, a staunch Unionist, was the only southern senator that remained with the Union. This loyalty would earn him the position of Military Governor of Tennessee during the Civil War. And later, when Abraham Lincoln sought a new running mate for the 1964 Presidential Election to balance out the regional ticket, he picked the “Tennessee Tailor“, as his vice-president.

Johnson’s Inaugural Bible, and Mourning Ribbon

Only months later however, mere days after the Civil War came to a close, President Lincoln was shot at Ford’s Theatre, dying the next morning. As sorrow and grief consumed the nation, all eyes turned to Johnson, who now had the difficult task of Reconstruction of the Union, and all of it’s post-war dilemmas.

Andrew Johnson

Unfortunately, unlike many times in American History where the right individual would be there for the right time, Johnson’s relationship with Congress would come to be adversarial.

Political Cartoon of Johnson

At the time, the Radical Republicans (the name for the more progressive wing of the then Republican Party) were pushing for a rush of legislation. This included greater rights for freed slaves (including the establishment of the Freedmen’s Bureau), greater punishments inflicted on the former Confederate states, and an uncompromising attitude towards their Democratic colleagues.

Now if you might have guessed already, Johnson may not have been stubborn. But he was extremely stubborn.

Johnson vetoed many of these Republican bills, citing constitutional overstepping (Johnson was a strict constructionist when it came to the U.S. Constitution). In addition, his very bigoted racial views (noted in several of his species supporting racial hierarchy between whites and blacks) often played a part in denying or postponing the granting of additional rights to African-americans. He was generally more lenient towards the south, allowing many of them to immediately come into the fold.

His often abrasive and often accusatory rhetoric and actions created one of the most hostile relations between the President and Congress in the country’s history. Disliking their power being curbed by Johnson, the Republicans issued the “Tenure of Office Act”, allowing only cabinet appointments approved by Congress. Johnson, as you might expect, took the bait for this trap.

Johnson, having inherited most of Lincoln’s Cabinet, fired Secretary of War Edwin Stanton, who he suspected of collaborating with the Radical Republicans. This gave the House (majority-Republican) the vitriol needed to impeach Johnson, thus making him the first U.S. President to be Impeached.

Admission Tickets for the Impeachment Trial

As denoted in the Constitution, a 2/3 majority vote is required for the Senate to remove the President from office. Debate was fierce, especially as this was the first time a trial of this nature had been hosted. Many historians note that the entire effort was likely a partisan effort to remove Johnson’s obstruction of their agenda (though perhaps this was warranted due to the president’s likelihood to act outside of his jurisdiction).

The Senate acquitted Johnson by just one vote, and after serving the tense remainder of his term, returned to Greeneville…

Andrew Johnson Homestead

Andrew Johnson bought this home in 1851 for him and his family, though he was often abroad serving in political offices, preventing him from investing too much in the home initially. It wasn’t until his return to Greeneville that he began to take an interest in local affairs from this abode.

Homestead (Backside)

I found the two-porch design to be particularly fascinating…

Andrew Johnson’s Bedroom/Office

85% of the items in the home are original to the Johnson Family’s time here. That means the furniture, bed, coat and vest, top hat, and travel trunk all belonged to President Johnson. Interestingly, he lived down here, while his wife Eliza lived upstairs. We’ll find out why in a bit.

The Parlor

The Parlor could entertain a modest gathering of people. Two of his daughters played the Steinway Piano here (which he didn’t). The Johnson’s had five children, a number of whom led unfortunate lives. One, Charles, was thrown off his horse in 1863 during the War and died, and another, Andrew Jr., succumbed to a laudanum addiction.

Eliza Johnson’s Room

Andrew Johnson’s wife, Eliza, lived in this room, upstairs. Though she dearly loved “Andy”, and supported him throughout his career, she suffered incredibly from Tuberculosis for, as did most of her family, who continued to struggle with it. She would die only 5 months after Andrew did (which I think is the shortest amount of time between both deaths of a presidential couple), perhaps from a broken heart.

The Dining Room

The Dining Room, where Johnson enjoyed some of his favorite comfort foods, including Buckwheat Pancakes (extremely difficult to make), Hoppin’ John (a southern dish of black-eyed peas, rice, onions, bacon, and other ingredients), and sweet potatoes. He and his family would be weighted on by their various slaves.

The Kitchen

Yes, Johnson would own up to 9 slaves during his lifetime (a relatively low amount compared with other Presidents), but would end up freeing them, and later paying them wages for their continued work. It’s an interesting dynamic considering his racial views.

Well… it’s time to head to the cemetery. (This is a phrase I often use to wrap up a historic site, or when we’re heading to a gravesite).

Andrew Johnson National Cemetery

In the National Cemetery that bears the name of our 17th President, the U.S. Flag and the P.O.W. Flag fly proudly above Monument Hill, and the long flight of stairs leading up to the Johnson plot.

Monument Hill

The Johnson Family originally owned this hill, then bestowed it to become a cemetery for military veterans.

White tombstones often reminisent of Arlington National Cemetery
Johnson Family Plot

On the crest of the hill, lies the final resting place of President Andrew Johnson and his family.

President Johnson actually returned to Washington 5 years after leaving office to serve a short few months as a U.S. Senator (the only former president to do so). Shortly afterward, he suffered a stroke, and died while visiting relatives just north of Greeneville.

He was laid to rest on this hill, draped in an American flag, and with a copy of the Constitution serving as his pillow.

President and Mrs. Johnson are buried underneath the arch of the tall eagle-adorned monument. Currently, grave restoration is being done to fix some of the cracks and weathering of the plot.

In historical rankings of our Presidents, Johnson is often considered one of the worst in American History, namely for his abrasiveness and refusal to work with others to get things done. This would leave behind a bitter legacy of injustice and social confusion for decades to come…

And yet, this site has given me much to think about of all the other accomplishments of Johnson, despite his many (many) faults. Strictly principled (stubbornly so) and a herald of the “common-man”, Johnson is recognized in few perspectives as a decent president. But in Greeneville, they keep the memory of Andrew Johnson “the man” alive. He’s “their” president after all. And perhaps that is enough.

With the visiting of Johnson’s grave, my quest to see all 39 presidential gravesites has come to an end, in a span of years beginning in 2007 with Lyndon B. Johnson, and ending in 2021 with Andrew Johnson (beginning and ending with a Johnson… I could not phrase that any better). Now I need to figure what to do with my life now.

Anyway, we left Greeneville to find respite in Gatlinburg, a center of tourism and attractions…

Gatlinburg Main Street

Suffice it to say, we were a little overwhelmed.

However, it’s not in Gatlinburg itself where our focus lies, but it’s in something much more impressive… the Great Smoky Mountains.

If there’s one other passion of mine you must know about (other than being a history buff, a Tolkien geek, and a coin-collector), is that I love to hike and immerse myself in nature, and breath that fresh air.

For this reason, we’ll be taking a brief break from History for a bit, for the end of this post (and the beginning of the next one), and just take some time to enjoy the scenery. I certainly recommend visiting if you’re in the area.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

“The Sinks”

Laurel Falls Trail
Laurel Falls

On our way back down from Laurel Falls, we came across a group of people gathered on the path, and well… this happened.

A black bear mother, having been separated from its cubs (who are up in one of the trees to the right), went back to fetch them, thus crossing the main path. For all of us, it was quite an unexpected sight to see.

Giving our friend plenty of space, we watch with anticipation as the bear climbed up…

… and sort of posed for us, before going to fetch her cubs.

It’s chance encounters like these that make me adore nature… we’ve never seen a black bear during our many travels in Colorado, let alone one this close to us! Since WordPress can’t show videos, I can’t show you the great footage I got from my phone of this… still, it was quite a welcome to the Smokies.

And that wraps up the day! Thanks so much for tuning in!

Tomorrow, we’ll do a bit more sightseeing in the Smoky Mountains, before journeying to Pigeon Forge for a bit of sightseeing.

Most of that will entail a much needed break from our busy schedule (and an easier time for my blog this time), but I won’t leave you empty handed! For in Pigeon Forge is the largest museum dedicated to the “Ship of Dreams”, “The Unsinkable Ship”… one that would meet its’ doom on April 15th, 1912.

Thanks again, hope you stop by next time.

Day 10: Farewell to Virginia (Lynchburg, VA to Bull’s Gap, TN) (6/9/21)

Welcome back! Today we spend our last day in Virginia, visiting two notable sites in the western area: Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest, and the National D-Day Memorial!

So before we enter Tennessee… let’s give one last hurrah for the Old Dominion State!

Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest

When Jefferson’s father-in-law John Wayles (the father of his wife Martha) died in 1773, Jefferson inherited several of his properties…as well as some serious debt. Jefferson sold off most of those properties, but managed to hold onto Poplar Forest, where he began constructing his summer villa… his “personal retreat”.

Poplar Forest

Jefferson, as you might expect, also designed this retreat, much like he did with Monticello. Before he had begun construction however, Jefferson (while Governor of Virginia) escaped Monticello with his family to hide here, away from the British. It wasn’t until 1806 however, that Jefferson would begin to design, build, and operate this property as a functioning plantation.

(Backside)

Jefferson would regularly visit Poplar Forest in between 1810 and 1823, to escape the sometimes intolerable attention and lack of privacy at Monticello. While Monticello was his “work-space”, Poplar Forest gave him time to think, read, write, and entertain his closest family members, including his granddaughters.

Jefferson built a long wing out from the side of the main house, which functioned not only as a long porch on top, but also provided workspace for slaves to do to their work (such as cooking, laundry, etc.)

One of two “mounds” on each side of the mansion.

Many trees once lined the perimeter of this hill, and also on its top. Having only been a historic site for at least three decades, the foundation here hopes to revert the grounds back to their original appearance.

The Privy

One doesn’t come across octagonal privies often, so this is quite a surprise to be sure. It was built (along with the main house) by Hugh Chisholm, a brickmason and plasterer who also helped to lay the bricks for Monticello. Under Jefferson’s “perfectionist oversight”, Chisholm would manage to complete both projects.


View from the Long Porch
View of the Slave Kitchen

Like Monticello, Poplar Forest was still a plantation, and 90-100 slaves lived and worked here to financially benefit Jefferson in his later years, growing cash crops like wheat and tobacco. Without their manual labor, his retirement would not have been possible.

The kitchen, seen above, was quite innovative for it’s time, and featured various kinds of ovens and stoves which were quite innovative during the time (like those seen at Monticello).

The “Spirits” Cellar

In here, Jefferson kept his most special of “spirits”… wine, beer, ale, and cider.

What? Did you think I meant ghosts?

The Front Side (Carriage Drive)

When Jefferson died, Poplar Forest passed to his grandson, Francis W. Eppes, who sold the property two years later. The house passed through several owners, and an 1845 fire burned all the woodwork of the roof and interior. In 1984, the property was purchased by the nonprofit ‘Corporation for Jefferson’s Poplar Forest‘, which has since been trying to restore the property (house, grounds, and all) to Jefferson’s time.

House Layout

The house curiously takes on an octagonal shape, with a central square dining room. Jefferson took a lot of European influence for this design of course, especially once again from the works of Andrea Palladio.

Jefferson’s bedchambers

Inside Jefferson’s bedchambers, one can see this central alcove where Jefferson once again employed the “bed-in-the-wall” trick. Much of the house is empty at the moment, as restoration work and research is ongoing, to learn more about the house, and its’ structure.

The Central Dining Room

In the dining room, work continues to restore the house to its’ original design, thanks to Jefferson’s detailed records.The wooden frames of the door will soon be painted white to match the rest of the wall.

The Parlor

In the parlor, Jefferson could entertain very small groups of visitors, and here was also kept one of his several libraries. Though many of the original books are gone from this room, a small collection still remains.

The Guest-chambers

In these private chambers (often used by the granddaughters), the true frame and structure of the house is put on display. The interweaving of timber and brick is really quite fascinating, and it’s a look you certainly don’t find at Monticello.

An Original Door

One of the original doors of Poplar Forest made by slave James Hemings, who did much of the interior structure and decoration in the house. This door, along with two others (and most of the furnishings), were saved from the 1845 fire. (Seriously, what is the deal with old historic homes and fires?)

Wall Layers

An interesting look into how the walls were formed at Poplar Forest (and I believe Monticello too). First, a number of rectangular wooden strips are applied to the brick. Then, a scratch coat layer mixed with horse hair (to make it stick better). Following that is a thick brown coat of primer, finishing off with the white coat that we’re familiar with.

I’ll say this for Poplar Forest… while Monticello might be better at exploring Jefferson’s talents and ideals (as well as plantation life), Poplar Forest excels at showing the practical matters of how these structures were built. Each site has their own strengths, so I still think that both are well worth a visit.

Leaving Poplar Forest, we proceeded on to Bedford, home to one of the finest military memorials in the entire country…

The National D-Day Memorial

I suppose our story begins with the dream of this man.

J. Robert “Bob” Slaughter,

Bob Slaughter, pictured above, was a World War II Veteran, and survivor of the D-Day campaign, who felt that the heroic struggles, sacrifices, and victory on June 6th, 1944, could not be adequately conveyed through a mere exhibit wing (as was the case with the National World War II Museum in New Orleans). So, it was he that gathered the funds and the organization to create this monument on 60 acres of a hill overlooking the town of Bedford.

Dedicated by then-President George W. Bush on the 57th Anniversary (2001) of that offensive, the memorial serves as a tribute to the honor and bravery of those soldiers who braved the beaches of Normandy in what was the largest military offensive in World History.

Out of the 34 soldiers native to Bedford that participated in Operation Overlord, 19 were killed on the first day, with 4 more dying later in the campaign. Because Bedford suffered more deaths than any other American town during the campaign, the memorial was situated here, to honor the memories of those who would not return.

The English Garden

The English Garden reflects upon the planning of the offensive, and the high-ranking individuals who took part in the planning and execution of it. Individuals like Major-general Omar Bradley, Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, and of course…

Statue of General Eisenhower

General (and future U.S. President) Dwight D. Eisenhower, who served as Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces during this time. It was partially thanks to Eisenhower’s shrewd delegation of responsibilities to capable officers that enabled the Allies to carry the day.

Looking towards the rest of the memorial. Notice the sword on the ground?
Eisenhower’s “Order of the Day”

Eisenhower’s “Order of the Day” became synonymous with the events of Operation Overlord… with over 152,000 troops and nearly 5,000 ships from the 12 different contributing countries, the storms let up enough for the Host of Liberation to catch the Nazi defenders unawares…

Physically, the figures are impossible to fully comprehend by anyone.

Aerial View of the D-Day Memorial (Not my picture)
The Pavilion
Wall of the Fallen (Left-side)
Wall of the Fallen (Right-side)

Much like the Vietnam Memorial in Washington D.C., the names of the fallen simply stretch on and on…

Allied Scout Plane

Painted with the black and white stripes, Allied lanes would do much scouting work, and attempt to drop paratroopers to aid in the fighting. Though the weather unintentionally spread them all around the countryside, the combined forces of the Allies were still able to overcome the outer defenses.

The memorial Centerpiece

The centerpiece of the memorial is meant to capture the moment of landing on the Beaches of Normandy…

Note the splashes in the water… through clever techniques, they make it look like enemy bullets are sailing into the water… it was certainly a noteworthy detail.

The Three Statues

Valor, Fidelity, and Sacrifice. Valor is the brave trooper escorting the medic, Fidelity, to aid others in need. And the fallen soldier… sacrifice. Too many soldiers payed the ultimate sacrifice that day… though they did so willingly.

Climbing up the wall.

After emerging from the low tide, and navigating the long beaches strewn with debris, the soldiers had to climb the wall in order to take out enemy defense posts…

The Victory Arch

Though the fighting was tough, the Allies prevailed, and made their first foothold in what would become the Liberation of Europe, and the defeat of the Third Reich.

Surrounding the base are the names of each of the five sectors of the beach assault… Utah, Omaha (both American fronts), Gold and Sword (both British beaches), and Juno (the Canadian beach).

Also surrounding the Arch are the modern flags of the 12 nations that in one way or another joined in the efforts of Operation Overlord. (From left to right: the United Kingdom, Poland, Norway, New Zealand, The Netherlands, Greece, France, Czechoslovakia, Canada, Belgium, Australia, and the United States.)

Upon this statue base, are the flags of World War II veterans: relatives of visitors to the memorial. Naturally, we couldn’t leave without remembering the ones of our own family.

My paternal grandfather Darvin served in the Army Air Corp, though thankfully was only in for two weeks before the war ended. My maternal grandfather Raymon served under General Patton on the western front, and even helped to liberate Flossenburg Concentration Camp. They never spoke deeply of their experiences, but I’m thankful for their dedication nonetheless.

With their names written on these flags by each of my parents, it was I, the grandson, who placed their names with the others.

It is just hard to believe that it was only 77 years ago that those beaches were dyed with the foam and blood of the fallen, where thousands would rush on to protect their homes, their families, and their honor. And now, so few from that awful war, let alone that one offensive, remain with us in the world today. No word could speak for the experiences or the suffering that they had witnessed. And no one could ever truly know what those brave souls would have endured for our security, and for our independence.

We owe much to their valor, fidelity, and sacrifice. When next you see a veteran from that war, or from any war, take a moment to stop and thank them for their service. Let them know that they are appreciated for what they have done. And take some time to reflect on the principles and liberties that they had so sought after to guard for us.

Lest we forget.

Although we were unable to visit during the 77th Anniversary of Operation Overlord three days earlier, I’m still glad we came.

Leaving our final stop in Virginia, and after a long drive through the hills, we came to it… Tennessee.

Even more adventures await us in Tennessee, not least of which those for next time! Join us as we visit the Andrew Johnson National Historic Site in Greeneville, Tennessee, wrapping up our quest to visit EVERY Presidential Gravesite! Also join us for our trip to Gatlinburg, where we’ll explore the beautiful landscapes in the shadows of the Great Smoky Mountains…

See you then!

Day 9: An Appomattox Appointment (Lexington, VA to Lynchburg, VA) (6/8/21)

I’m sure the title might have given it away, but today we visit one of the landmark sites of the American Civil War… Appomattox.

Here on April 10th, 1865, Confederate general Robert E. Lee surrendered himself and his Army of Northern Virginia to the Union Army led by general (and future president) Ulysses S. Grant. Though some fighting continued afterwards, this is often credited as the end of the war.

And we have two different sites to show you! The Appomattox Museum, and the Appomattox Courthouse National Historical Park. Join us!

The American Civil War Museum (Appomattox)

If you recall from my previous posts, the American Civil War Museum consists of three locations. The White House of the Confederacy, and the museum locations at Richmond and Appomattox. Now we come to the latter.

Museum Front
Many detailed and intricate exhibits.

Having been pursued by the Union Army for weeks, and following various skirmishes, Lee decided to surrender to Grant, declaring “I would rather die a thousand deaths.”

Lee’s uniform and gloves worn at Appomattox.
Lee’s ceremonial sword.

Thus, Grant and Lee met at the tiny community of Appomattox Courthouse (the town was literally named “Appomattox Courthouse”), and there they officiated the surrender of Lee’s Army. For many, it was the end to a long and bitter struggle.

Pen used by General Lee at Appomattox
Various Confederate uniforms and effects.
Ditto

Their meeting lasted only 90 minutes, but it didn’t take long for word to spread throughout both the Union and the Confederacy.

Various headlines of the time.

There were many different reactions across the continent. Some were confronted with feelings of jubilation, others defeat, and others anger or mournfulness. It was only four days later on April 14th that President Lincoln would be shot and killed by John Wilkes Booth.

Thomas M. Logan and John Milton’s Uniforms

Some individuals, like Brigadier General Thomas M. Logan (left) and Governor John Milton (right) committed suicide, refusing to concede defeat. Those that didn’t would prove to be embittered against their “conquerors”.

Robert E. Lee’s Death Mask (1870)

Any death mask can prove to be rather haunting… especially considering this was how Robert E. Lee looked when he died.

Indeed, though the Union would be reunited with it’s southern brethren, the “Lost Cause of the South” would continue to persist under the idols of Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and other Confederate leaders. Made into symbols of bigotry and hatred, racial injustice would pierce the south long after the passage of the 13th, 14th, and 15 amendments, granting African-americans freedom, citizenship, and the right to vote.

sharecropping tools

Many freed slaves soon found themselves impoverished, and thus were exploited by their former masters. Under the Sharecropping System (in which servants would be provided with shelter, food and “payment” by their often former masters), literacy tests (excluding African-americans from voting), and further terror brought by vigilante groups like the Ku Klux Klan, the rights of African-americans and other minorities would be infringed on by the South.

Even after the end of the war, its’ scars run deep…

Barely a mile away from the museum, one can find the actual site of the town where it all came to an end.

Appomattox Court House National Historical Park

Grant and Lee needed a place of neutral ground to conduct their surrender… somewhere close, and on neutral ground. The nearby town of Appomattox Court House proved to be just the place.

Site of Grant’s Headquarters (South)
Site of Lee’s Headquarters (North)
Site of Grant and Lee’s first meeting.

The victorious Union Army would occupy the tiny community, and slightly north of the town, Grant and Lee would meet. The tension was certainly present, but Grant and Lee would treat one another with respect and dignity. So it seemed to be with their men as well.

Diagram of Confederate troops “stacking arms”.

From the front porch of one home, one could see weary Confederate soldiers laying down their arms as they surrendered… some silently weeping from their lost cause… others, merely relieved to receive food for the first time in days… the war had took its’ toll on both sides.

Mariah Wright House (1820’s)
A now peaceful field in the former town.
The Bocock-Isbel House

The house above was built by the Speaker of the Confederate House, Thomas S. Bocock.

The Jail (built in 1867, post-war)
Street-view

Originally named Clover Hill in 1819 (after the tavern located here), the town would get it’s name from the nearby Appomattox River, and from the important court house located here.

The Clover Hill Tavern
Printing Presses

At the Clover Hill Tavern, Union soldiers printed out over 300,000 parole slips for Confederate soldiers, allowing them to return home.

Grant’s merciful and charitable treatment of the Confederate soldiers is a detail that is well-remembered. There was no gloating or cruel taunting from him, or any of his troops. It was a solemn moment that few others could ever match.

Appomattox Courthouse

Appomattox Court House, pictured above, was the center of the community back in the 1800’s. This building however, unlike most of the others, is a replica, as the original burned in 1892.

Contrary to popular belief however, the signing of the surrender was not here at the Court House. Because it was closed on Palm Sunday (and the preferability of neutral ground between Union and Confederates), they decided to have it nearby…

The McLean House

Owned by Wilmer McLean, a buisnessman who had fled Manassas during the First Battle of Bull Run (one of the first battles of the Civil War), the McLean House would ironically be the location of one of the last landmark events in the war. The house was deconstructed in the 1890’s, so the house you see here is a replica.

Yet its’ still very evocative of that moment… imagine Union soldiers surrounding the fence, silently waiting to see what would happen. When the two generals strode out, Grant stood on the front steps, while Lee climbed aboard his beloved Horse Traveller. Tipping his hat in a sign of respect, Lee left with his men to return to Richmond.

The Dining Room
The Living Room and… Bedroom?

Here in this room, sat Lee, Grant, and their subordinates, as they paved the way for the War’s end. Grant sat at the wooden table (center), and Lee at the marble table (left). Grant would provide safe passage and give provisions to Lee’s soldiers as they returned home. Both West Point graduates, the two treated one another with remarkable class and dignity.

The War had finally come to an end… at least, the physical part of it. Both sides were left wearied by it, countless towns and cities had been damaged or destroyed, and over a million lives had been lost to senseless and bloody warfare. If we should learn anything from the final meeting at Appomattox, is that we can come together, despite our differences, and be able to reason with each other respectfully, and empathetically. And that is a very comforting thought, especially in this day and age.

As a side note, the two chairs and Grant’s table are kept at the Smithsonian Institution, and Lee’s Table up in Chicago.

Anyway, I hope that the shortness of this post was able to make up for my longer one yesterday!

Tomorrow we venture out for our final day in Virginia, as we visit Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest, as well as the National D-Day Memorial. From there, on we go to Tennessee!

Hope to see you next time!

Day 8: Mountains of Legacy (Charlottesville, VA to Lexington, VA) (6/7/21)

Welcome to the official halfway point of our Virginia trip!

Today we explore the hilltop estate of Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, as well as the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library and Museum (along with some other things too)!

Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello

I have actually been to Monticello before, six years ago in fact. Of course, many things are bound to be different since that time has passed, and with all that i’ve learned in that span, and with mom also being with us, i’m eager to relook at Monticello!

Peter Jefferson, Thomas’s father, would die in 1757, and our future president would inherit this property and begin to build what would become one of his greatest physical legacies.

Peeking through the trees.

Built atop a small mountain, Monticello was designed personally by Jefferson, its’ chief architect. Over the course of 40 years, Jefferson would continuously build, extend, and redesign his house into the impressive structure it is today.

I mean it when I say that nowhere is Jefferson’s brilliance and talents displayed more fully (or in as many ways) than here.

Monticello (Front)

Jefferson was inspired by many classical European structures while designing his home, particularly from Andrea Palladio, who designed many italian villas (like the one pictured below) in grand displays of antiquity. (That art history class in college actually really helped here!)

Villa Rotonda, an example of Palladio’s work.

It’s no wonder that Monticello’s architecture (along with that of the University of Virginia, which he also designed), was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Let’s go inside Monticello, shall we?

The Entry Hall

The Entry Hall was laden with multiple artifacts brought from the Lewis and Clark Expedition, and gifted to Jefferson by the two intrepid adventurers. Being on a time limit, I had to hurry with some of my panoramic pictures, so I apologize if things get a bit distorted.

The Grand Clock

Notice the Grand Clock hanging over the entrance.

One of the many things that Jefferson is known for, is being an inventor. This unique grand clock for instance, was designed in 1792 by Jefferson (and built by Peter Spruck), and does more than just tell time. It not only offers clock hands for hours and minutes, but also a smaller one for seconds. But even more fascinating, the clock is driven by the two hanging pulley weights you see on each side of the room. And depending on the markers set on the right side of the wall, you could tell what day it was as well. Simply ingenious.

Jefferson’s Library
Part of Jefferson’s Personal Collection

Jefferson was quite an avid reader, and the volumes that he owned proved to be quite important… When the British burned the fledgling Library of Congress during the War of 1812, Jefferson donated his entire personal collection to the United States government, where it served as the core of what would become the modern-day and very extensive Library of Congress.

The Botany Room

Jefferson was also an adept at Botany, fascinated by the nature of new plants and herbs, which he would regularly incorperate in Mulberry Row (which we’ll see in a moment).

Jefferson’s Study

Likely where you would find Mr. Jefferson during much of his time here, the study was where he could write in his journals or correspondence, or simply have time to think on the eventful life he led, cultivating the ideas of liberty and equality through the Declaration of Independence, which he authored.

Looking at the bust of his friend John Adams reminds me of their lengthy correspondence together in retirement, much of which is still preserved today. It was a long way from Monticello to Peacefield up in Massachusetts, but the two would be connected in more ways than one…

First, notice the actual copying machine he developed! As you wrote on a piece of paper with one pen, the other pen would write on another piece of paper! Jefferson would also invent various other inventions, such as pulley doors that opened at the same time (like those that led into his parlor), a small turntable bookstand where he could keep 5 different books or pages open at a time, and perhaps his most famous invention: the swivel chair.

Jefferson’s Bed….wall?

Reflecting on the idea that beds sometimes took up too much space of a room (like mine), Jefferson decided to build his right into the wall, so he could step out on either side.

It was here that on July 4th, 1826, the 50th anniversary of the signing of his Declaration of Independence, that he died at the age of 83. Hundreds of miles away, and several hours later, his friend John Adams would also die, with his last words: “Thomas Jefferson survives.” Of course, he was never aware of Jefferson’s earlier passing.

The Parlor

Jefferson received many visitors to the parlor, especially the likes of James Madison, James Monroe, and the Marquis de Lafayette. Jefferson, being more of an introvert, was still forced to greet as many as 30 guests on some occasions. With his wife Martha’s earlier passing in 1782, it was no easy task.

Attempting to escape his grief, he spent much time in Paris (as well as during his tenure as Ambassador to France), where he simply fell in love with french culture.

The Dining Room

While yellow might not have been seen in Colonial America (probably not at all), it simply lights up the room.

Jefferson was potentially what we might call a “foodie” in today’s terms. No president, indeed, no person of his time, established such a reputation for experimental cooking and flavory than him. Inspired by french cooking (of course), he dabbled with recipes such as macaroni and cheese, vanilla ice cream, fries (of the french variety), and of course, the tomato.

As one story goes, he alarmed a group of dinner guests when he decided to eat a tomato right in front of their eyes. Tomatoes were originally thought to be poisonous you see, but while their leaves are poisonous, their fruit is not. So, we have Thomas Jefferson to thank for introducing that.

The Wine Elevator

Hidden in the side of the fireplace is a wine elevator, which could send four bottles of wine from the cellar up to dinner! He designed this as well (with the pulley system of course).

(Back View)
Monticello Garden Loop
Simply gorgeous flowers.

Various homemade products, like honey, plant seeds or spirits are grown or made here at Monticello, and offered at the shops there. I recommend you check them out if you ever visit.

The “”Nickel” View

Looks familiar to you?

Monticello is simply that iconic of a site. Next time you see this side of a nickel, think of me and my blog won’t you? 😉

Peering through the treeline, one can see the University of Virginia far in the distance. Jefferson is known as the “Father” of that institution, as he created and formed most of the original buildings, curriculum, and scholarly material. When the building was under construction, Jefferson would keep this treeline open, so that when he looked through his spyglass and saw something wrong, he would literally ride on his horse to town and give them the “what-for”.

Albemarle County is simply gorgeous…
The Smokehouse

Jefferson’s slaves were quite busy with preparing various kinds of meats for his enjoyment.

The Kitchen

As were the kitchens, which bustled with activity. One particular slave, James Hemings, along with several others, had to learn to cook french cuisine while in Paris (I’ll get to his younger sister, Sally Hemmings, in a bit).

The Clock Chute

Remember the Grand Clock? They didn’t have enough height for the weights to cover all 7 days, so rather than extend the top of the house, Jefferson decided to cut a hole in the floor and have it work there.

The Beer Cellar

Beer, ale, lager, cider and mead were very popular drinks even back then, and Jefferson surely had quite the stash.

The Wine Cellar

But it was in wine that Jefferson was most well known for.

Words cannot express how much he loved wine (especially red wine)… so much so in fact, that the cost of his wine spending would end up being $100,000 in today’s money (no wonder he was deeply in debt)…

Bottom of the Wine Elevator, in the Wine Cellar.

Unfortunately, as with every president or prominant historical figure, there’s an elephant in the room to discuss.

Being a 5,000 acre plantation, Jefferson had to employ nearly 250 slaves to do his manual labor. He would own at least 600 throughout the course of his lifetime. He would only free 7 of them in his lifetime.

Many consider it the ultimate irony that Jefferson, a slaveowner, was the one who wrote our Declaration of Independence, which promised liberty and equality to all. Like his successors Madison and Monroe, Jefferson hated slavery, but was unable to find any way to alleviate it.

Hemings Cabin

Many now know the story of Sally Hemings, a slave under his estate (and half-sister to Jefferson’s wife Martha), who Jefferson would have an “intimate” relationship with. Recent extensive research and DNA evidence has proved that four of Sally’s children were born from their mother and Jefferson.

Picture of various descendents of Sally and Jefferson, at a Monticello reunion.

Originally spread by rumors during his presidency, Jefferson still faces considerable controversy for this “illegitimate” relationship, particularly in the ambiguous context of the nature of their relationship. It is, and will always be, a stain on his already troubled legacy.

Well, venturing from that very heavy topic, we then came to Mulberry Row.

Mulberry Row

Mulberry Row was a garden unlike any other, for Jefferson would keep hundreds of different kinds of plants, fruits, vegetables, and herbs to experiment with, and use in his culinary exploits. He had catalogued his inventory extensively, and there could found common plants like corn, lettuce, carrotts, wheat, and grapes, but also new and exotic plants no one had ever seen before, including rutabegas, kale, sesame, chickpeas, okra, onions, peanuts, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflowers… the list goes on.

Along the road also once rested many buildings which served as the industrial center of Monticello, featuring blacksmiths, weavers, woodworkers, tinsmiths, and other such slave-powered labor. Some replicas (or foundations) still remain along the road.

Down the road we go…
The Monticello Graveyard

Surrounded by a wrought-iron fence, is the private cemetery of the various descendents of Thomas Jefferson, spanning the nearly 300 years since his time. Some interments date as far back as the 1700’s, while others as recent as the 2010’s. Various descendants of Salley Hemmings and Thomas Jefferson have petitioned to be able to be buried here, which has naturally been met with some backlash.

Of course, there’s only one grave that can be the center of all the cemetery.

The final resting place of the Governor of Virginia, Ambassador to France, our 1st Secretary of State, 2nd Vice-president, and our 3rd president… Thomas Jefferson.

Grave of Thomas Jefferson

Here, Jefferson is surrounded by his loved ones, including his wife, daughters, and other family members.

Do you know what’s most interesting about his grave? His own self-composed epitaph.

Jefferson wanted to be remembered for these three things. Not for being president, or governor, or any other government office. These were the three things that he wanted to be remembered for.

Jefferson’s legacy is indeed flawed, and certainly has some contradictions… but one has to remember that the Declaration was something that was entirely new to a world in which tyrants, kings, and emperors had total sway over the populace. It was a revolutionary idea (no pun intended), that raised the people up, and introduced to them the notion that “All Men are Created Equal”.

Many nations across the world have taken inspiration in the ideas sprouted by this man through this creed, and many have modeled their own Statutes of Freedom after it. It spread like wildfire, and it united many different peoples under a common hope that one day, WE all will be equal.

Though there is much work to do in the world abroad to ensure that the dream is realized, but we still have Jefferson to thank, for enlightening us to overcome our own failings, and ensure that all know the jubilation of those famous words…

Not far from Monticello, along the winding and hill-strewn road between there and Charlottesville, lies the quaint eating establishment simply known as the Miche Tavern.

The Miche Tavern

Opened in 1784, the Miche Tavern is one of the most popular destinations in the entire state, and one could argue that it offers the finest food in all of Virginia. I’m inclined to agree with them.

Atmospheric and cozy, the tavern is served by extremely friendly servers… having first been here six years ago, my fond memory of the place had still held up.

The Finest of Virginia

The abundance of delicious southern food was simply to die for… juicy fried chicken, pulled pork, mashed Potatoes, candied yams, green beans, savory biscuits, and a cup of cold and refreshing cider. And afterwards, the best peach cobbler in the world.

If that doesn’t spell southern delight, then I don’t know what does!

(I’m not getting paid to advertise the tavern to you, but no visit to Virginia is complete without a visit.)

Anyways, to distract myself from getting hungry again, let me tell you about the second half of our day

Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library and Museum

An hour’s drive west of Charlottesville takes you to Staunton, the creator of the “city-manager” form of local government (if that piques your interest at all). More notably (at least to me), is that it is the birthplace of Woodrow Wilson, our 28th President.

The Manse (Backside)

The Manse was where on December 28th, 1856, Thomas Woodrow Wilson was born to Joseph (a presbyterian minister) and Jesse Wilson. The family lived here only briefly before moving to Georgia, but here it still remains as a memorial to Wilson.

The Front

Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, birthplace tours have not happened in quite some time, and don’t start up until June 11th (dang it, we’ll be in Tennessee by then).

Manse Hallway

I did however, snap this hallway picture through the window! It turned out pretty well.

The Museum Building
Wilson with his first wife Ellen (left), and second wife Edith (right)

Though often considered stoic and reserved, Wilson was a deeply romantic individual, as evidenced by the many love letters to both his wives. Ellen, his first wife, died only five days after the outbreak of World War I, breaking his heart. But Edith’s entrance into his life managed to revive him with new vigor once again.

Wilson’s 1919 Pierce Arrow

The center of the collection is certainly Wilson’s 1919 Pierce Arrow, THE car of luxury back in his day. He would woo Edith with long drives throughout Washington D.C., and the car today is still perfectly functional (sometimes participating in Staunton’s Fourth of July celebrations).

Various Wilson Family Effects

In case you were wondering, yes. Our 28th President wore that when he was young. Back then I suppose it was just the custom.

Woodrow Wilson’s Princeton Years

By the time Wilson came to Princeton University, he had never heard the Star Spangled Banner before (as he was a southern boy who grew up during the Civil War). But he gradually rose through the ranks to obtain a PhD in Political Science! He’s still the only president to have a doctorate degree.

His Princeton Presidential Desk

As President of Princeton University, Woodrow Wilson managed to turn the college into a prestigious university, and was critical to what Princeton is now today.

As a historian, Wilson wrote many different books, from multi-volume works of American History and Politics, to biographical works of George Washington, among others.

Wilson’s Governor’s Desk

Wilson was unexpectedly raised into the limelight by powerful democratic political bosses, who helped him to be elected Governor of New Jersey in 1911. He filled his term by kicking out the political bosses, and establishing significant progressive reform that potentially made him one of the state’s best governors.

So much so in fact, that Wilson easily won the 1912 Election, with the Republican vote split beween incumbant republican William Howard Taft, and progressive Theodore Roosevelt.

As president, Wilson enacted a sweeping wave of progressive reform, including the creation of the Federal Reserve, the Federal Trade Commission, and passage of the 19th Amendment, granting women the right to vote. Wilson however, does receive criticism for preserving racial segregation in Federal Offices.

An anti-suffragist cartoon (what even).
Various posters of Wilson.

But war would soon come to threaten the United States’s affairs abroad, particularly with the sinking of the RMS Lusitania, a British passenger-ship carrying some American passengers, by German U-boats. Though having originally attempted to avoid joining World War I, further german aggression forced Wilson to go to war; who declared to a joint session of congress:

“The world must be made safe for democracy.” — Woodrow Wilson, 1917

Various Wilson Memorabilia
German Machine-gun

Wilson led the country through World War I, heling the allies to victory.

WWI Trench Diorama

Wilson was critical in working with world leaders to establish the Treaty of Versailles, which would help create the precursor to the United Nations: The League of Nations; a concept of Wilson’s own making. However, the physical strain of being president would lead him to have a massive stroke, unable to prevent the U.S. Congress from voting to not join the League. It can be argued that this doomed the League, and paved the way for more malicious forces to spread across the world (and another world war).

Wilson retired with Edith to the private home in Washington D.C. (which we’ve visited), where he died in 1924. He was buried in the Washington National Cathedral in D.C., and remains today as one of our above-average presidents.

Having come full circle around many of Wilson’s historical sites (namely his D.C. home and museum here), I can certainly appreciate the legacy of what he left us with. And that famous line to Congress has often been the backbone of our modern foreign policy. Perhaps one day i’ll visit his boyhood homes in Georgia and South Carolina…

I have a little bit more to show you actually! Nearby Lexington has quite a bit of history!

Stonewall Jackson House

First, is the only house of Stonewall Jackson! Had I not known this was it, I would never have notoiced it…

Washington and Lee University

Second, Washington and Lee University! It’s quite an elaborate college, but there was one landmark here that I originally intended to visit..

The Lee Chapel

The Lee Chapel is where Robert E. Lee and various other Lee family members are buried. Due to to University restrictions however, the chapel has not been open in some time. I’ll show you a couple of internet photos to show you what it looks like inside.

Lee Chapel (Interior)
Effigy of Lee (Crypt below)

Lee Crypt (underneath the chapel).

Grave of Traveller (Outside the Chapel)
Oak Grove Cemetery

Finaly, in Oak Grove Cemetery, one can find the grave of one of the more notable confederate soldiers…

I’ll give you one guess.

Grave of Stonewall Jackson

The rest of “Stonewall” Jackson is buried here, and is the most noticeable monument in the place. Lemons surround his grave, on account that he used to do weird things to stay strong, including taking unnecessarily cold showers, and sucking on lemons.

And that concludes Day 8! If you made it to the end, congratulations!

My next post likely won’t be quite as long, since the only thing we are seeing tomorrow is Appomattox Courthouse, the very place where the Civil War was brought to an end!

See you then!