Day 16, Hudson Valley Expedition (Castleton, NY to Rutland, VT) (5/27/19)

Upon reflecting on the planning for the remainder of the trip, I realized something.

Today is my 20th Birthday…

That’s it! May 28th… it seems that in all this rush, I had almost completely forgotten about my own birthday, which granted, is not a very easy thing to do.

Regardless however, I will still continue on my pace, for there is nothing more that I would ask for than visiting all of these special Historical Sites, and to share it with my family and you all! So I thank you once again for keeping with me so far!

This post will be dedicated to May 27th’s activities, which took us from the Hudson Valley of New York, all the way to the piney heights of Vermont! It’s quite a big jump, so let’s get to it!

 

Martin Van Buren National Historic Site

Our next stop is Kinderhook, New York, which is located only a few miles south of the New York State capital of Albany. Kinderhook is a relatively small town, and would likely be forgotten in the annals of history were it not for the fact that our 8th President, Martin Van Buren, lived here for much of his life.

Van Buren’s residence of “Lindenwald” is preserved by the National Park Service as the Martin Van Buren National Historic Site, and is likely the best place to learn about the “Little Magician”, as he was called.

And here we are, let’s get right to it!

The grounds on the estate, aside from the massive excesses of gnats flying around, was certainly a pretty one to see.

And this is Van Buren’s home, ‘Lindenwald”! Though this house didn’t exist before his birth, it is still worthy to note the amount of Dutch Influence in this place. Besides being the first president to be born an American Citizen, Van Buren was also the only one to speak english as a second language (dutch was his primary tongue)!

Originally the estate of a wealthy judge, Van Buren bought this place after the former’s death, wanting it to become a form of a “Presidential Retreat” for his second term. Of course, that latter goal didn’t exactly come to fruition.

 

Entering the house, guided by our very knowledgeable park ranger, we came into the entrance hall…. or should I say… dining room?

This is an odd occurance, especially in those days…

This table however, is foldable! It’s fashioned in an accordion-like design, and could easily be folded into just a single panel of the table, should the need arise.

All that interesting wallpaper is also original! They did very extensive work to restore it to the vibrant color it had when Van Buren lived here.

Interesting manual chandelier, that you can raise or lower.

A peek into one of the lower guest-rooms. Henry Clay stayed here during his 3-day visit to Kinderhook, and his slave slept in front of the bed on those layed out cloths. Though Van Buren’s family had owned slaves, Van Buren himself was neutral on the subject until the end of his life, in which he became a staunch supporter of the Union, Abraham Lincoln, and anti-slavery causes.

One of the main parlor rooms, which was often used by the ladies who visited the place. Though the carpet and wallpaper are mere reproductions, they are all still the exact same design and pattern used by Van Buren.

The other parlor room! Note the three different pictures of Van Buren on he left, Thomas Jefferson in the center, and Andrew Jackson on the right.

Van Buren emulated Thomas Jefferson and his political beliefs, and was a prominent member of his Democratic-Republican party. Van Buren, being a terrific political mastermind and organizer, was one of the founders of the Democratic Party, and would become Andrew Jackson’s Vice-President. Naturally, with someone as popular as Jackson supporting him in his bid for election, Van Buren easily won the White House.

Look at those sideburns…

Van Buren was called the “Old Fox of Kinderhook” by some, or more commonly, “Old Kinderhook”. The last nickname was shortened to the acronym “O.K.” And thus, that is how we got the word OK!

If you take nothing else from this post, at least remember that we can thank Martin Van Buren for coining OK! I’d be a happy camper if you do.

The servants area was actually a lot nicer than most that we’ve seen lately… they were paid very well by the president, but each servant never stayed for long, as they moved on to other jobs.

A neat bell system with different bell tones for different rooms of the house. It’s a clever idea that allows servants quicker completion of requested tasks.

The kitchen! Van Buren, as a northern farmer, was a great grower of staple crops such as potatoes, and of varous other crops. Some of his favourite foods included Fish, fresh fruit, Oysters (which were a very common commodity to find in Kinderhook), and Madeira Wine.

Look at the size of this stove.. how on earth did his servants not get back pains?

The Laundry Room. Cotton buisness boomed in the South thanks to the use of slave labor, but was not enough to counter the Economic Panic of 1837, which Van Buren presided over. Andrew Jackson’s victory over the closing of the National Bank had severely damaged credit to farmers and industrialists alike, and Van Buren got the blame.

Some mighty impressive storage, which would likely be enough to stock an entire larder in.

Looking up through the cupola high above, one can see that there are FIVE floors to this house (though, the last couple of floors are just tiny chambers)!

Van Buren’s private study. Like many presidents, he was another big bookworm.

Though Van Buren would likely have not worn a toga in the 1800’s, it is still important to note that Van Buren was, for all intents and purposes, a “dandy”. he was the kind that would regularly take baths a day, wear expensive clothes, and ride around in pricey carriages. This didn’t make him seem exactly in touch with the common people, which probably was the cause for his losing the Election of 1840 to William Henry Harrison.

Upstairs in this bedroom, one can spot the portrait of Angelica Singleton, who was Van Buren’s Daughter-in-law. She served as White House hostess (and First-Lady) during his administration, because his wife Hannah died several years before.

In this picture of the Red Room in the White House, one can see George H.W. and Barbara Bush, George W. and Laura Bush, and President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama. Angelica Singleton looks on from the wall, as you can see.

The last room in the house was the President’s bedroom. It was a very spacious room, and DID NOT have a circular fan like you can see near the fireplace.

And it was in this sleigh-bed that Martin Van Buren breathed his last in 1862, in the midst of the Civil War. In his will, he stated that above all else in his active political life, there was no greater joy than getting to spend time with his family, which would carry on longer than he did.

Martin Van Buren was certainly not one of our better presidents, and historians rank him as in the bottom quartile of the 44 men that have graced the office. However, it is quite possible that we are not looking at Van Buren’s “character” in the proper angle that it should be examined.

Van Buren’s occupation that he enjoyed the most in his life was his time as a farmer in the later years of his life, and not as the most powerful man in the nation. He wanted to leave behind bounties and resources that would actually make a difference, and leave society a little better off than it was before. It is through his work as a farmer that perhaps gives him the most deserving merit.

His extraordinary capabilities as a political organizer were potentially not the best suited for the Presidency, but yet aside from helping to create the oldest-surviving political party in the world (the Democratic Party), his assertive ambition would also lead him to become a U.S. Senator, Governor of New York, Secretary of State, Minister to the United Kingdom, Vice-President, and finally President.

And that in itself is something worthy indeed in History.

 

 

We then travelled to the north end of Kinderhook, at the local Kinderhook Reformed Church Cemetery. There, we will see Martin Van Buren’s Gravesite, and then-

… Que?

Geez… the most special secrets are the ones that are actually secret…

This is a VERY old building! It must have been built VERY well.

Well, anyways, we reached the cemetery in a few minutes.

Kinderhook Reformed Church Cemetery

This is a very small, ungated cemetery, that would be forgotten by most were it not for it’s most famous internment.

Something tells me that he’s buried here.

 

It is still very old and pretty here though, considering the slight lean of some of the tombstones.

Aha, here we are!

One of the most noticeable monuments in the Cemetery, and possibly the tallest of all of them.

Sadly, the marker was weathered and worn, with the letters hardly legible.

Hannah Van Buren, his wife, is buried here. She has a special epitaph that covers her grave.

And this is the actual headstone of President Van Buren, which simply reads: MVB.

And his son, Martin Van Buren Jr. He had several sons, one of which is buried in the next cemetery that we are going to visit.

 

After paying our respects, we got in the car and travelled further north through the Hudson Valley, and into the town of Menands, New York, a satellite city of Albany. Another presidential gravesite awaits us in one of the largest cemeteries in New York!

Albany Rural Cemetery

The cemetery is nicely filled with small copses of trees, though it could certainly use a bit of lawn-mowing.

It wasn’t hard to find our target however, even how deep inside it was.

This is the grave of Chester A. Arthur, one of our most forgettable presidents.

… geez that facial hair… I’d be cutting those off in his sleep.

One can see the presidential seal on his marker. Arthur, formerly the Chief Port-Collector of New York, was chosen by President James A. Garfield to be his running mate. When Garfield was shot by a disgruntled worker in Washington D.C., and with the former’s passing weeks later, Arthur was sworn in as the 21st President.

A beautiful angel, which seems even more sorrowful given the oxidized green color to it. It’s oddly serene looking.

This gravesite hides a very interesting lie… Chester A. Arthur was born in 1829, a YEAR before what is depicted on the gravestone!

Why is that? Did he want to make himself seem younger, or is there another purpose to it? We may never know..

Arthur, having been born 15 miles south of the Canadian border in Vermont, was ridiculed by opponents with rumors that he was actually born in Canada, which would have made his claim to the Presidency illegitimate. The rumors were easily dispelled, though talk remains to this day about such a possibility.

Nearby is buried many others of the Arthur family, including his wife Nell (who died before he became President), his parents William and Malvina, and several of his siblings.

If Arthur did anything notable in the office (which is a little bit hard to find), it would have been his work towards Civil-Service Reform, which allowed merit-based government appointments to be recommended instead of reliance of the “Spoils System”.

Still, his lack of notability puts his good values into merely an average administration. Our Presidential Gravesite total is now at 31/39!

That does it, I’m getting the scissors!

 

Grant Cottage State historic Site

Our last site of the day… well, tells a story. The story of a War-Hero that sought to save his family from financial ruin… his last heroic battle…

I speak of course, of Civil War General and 18th President Ulysses S. Grant, who came to this cottage in Upstate New York to spend his final weeks writing his memoirs, before dying here amidst the wooded slopes of Mt. McGregor.

 

Up the hill we go.. it was a long winding path, and feeling the cool wind on our faces as we went was refreshing.

… wait a minute… this doesn’t seem right…

As it turns out, there is a recently abandoned correctional facility that rests right on the side of the hill… Used to, you had to provide ID to get the security clearance needed to proceed to the cottage. Thankfully, this isn’t the case anymore.

Aha, here we are!

After stopping at the nearby visitor center, we walked up to the cottage itself.

It’s actually a very nice cottage. I can’t imagine how many people don’t know about this, it’s a very well-hidden gem.

Ah yes, time to begin our story!

It was in the early 1880’s, and Ulysses S. Grant, the hero of the Civil War (and President of the United States) was dying of terminal throat cancer… his habit of constantly smoking and chewing on cigars had done the general in, and greatly weakened his physical strength. His son got him involved in a ponzi-scam that left their family with only $200 in their name… Things seemed bleak, because it was very possible that the general would leave his family penniless and destitute following his inevitable death…

So, there was only one thing for it. He began to write his autobiography, his Personal Memoirs… if he could finish them just before he died, then it’s sales could save them from financial ruin…

And so, it was a race against fate itself. As the words flowed from General Grant’s pen, the cancer worsened, and his doctors recommended fresh air to help his ailing throat.

And so, the President moved with his entire family up from the smog-filled streets of New York City, to the heights of this very mountain… he had just weeks left.

The tumor on his cheek looks so painful… this is a poor-quality photograph actually, and not a painting.

Our very enthusiastic tour-guide let us into the cottage, which has carefully been preserved EXACTLY the way it was when the general spent his last days here…

This room was the President’s “Bedroom” and office, where he would work on his memoirs when he wasn’t resting on the front porch.

Grant rested his feet on top of these chairs put face-to-face. He slept in a sitting-position here as well, because he would’ve choked if he lied down… it makes you feel truly sorry for him…

The upholstery of the chairs were redone in the 50’s, which gives reason as to why they look somewhat new.

The President’s pen and notepad, which he used to write the memoirs. Grant had a terrific capacity for writing, and could easily write 10,000 words in a single day.

“I have such difficulty speaking that I am no company.”…. That almost breaks your heart to see him write that…

It’s a marvel that these items have survived for so long… for 134 years to be exact.

And this is 134 year-old water. What is that stuff on the ground you ask?

Well… are you sitting down for this? (Well… might be a bit weird if you were standing up for this.. scratch that). This will blow your mind.

That is actual Cocaine.

Yes..  you heard me right. Cocaine. Apparently, this “Cocaine Water” was swabbed on Grant’s throat so it would quell his pain a little bit… I can’t imagine that helped too much, but what would they know back then?

Even stranger is the fact that the New York State Department of Parks and Recreation measures the amount of Cocaine in there every year to make sure that none of it is gone. I kid you not.

Grant labored on for six more long weeks… after much labor, he finished his memoirs, managing to get his good friend, famous author Mark Twain to publish it.

Grant died just Three Days later.

This very room… and this very bed… he died a soldier’s death, fighting to the last…

This clock, which was running that fateful morning, was stopped by the President’s son at the EXACT time of his death. It hasn’t ticked in 134 years.

His death mask, which shows that he died in relative peace… and he did, surrounded by friends, family, and holding onto the hand of his beloved wife Julia.

Even more eerie was this room… these floral decorations are 134 years old. Perfectly preserved, and perfectly readable.

Exactly like in the photograph…

U. S. Grant..

There are very few historic sites that have so immersed me and made me shiver as this one… consider me very impressed.

Ulysses S. Grant was buried in what would become the largest mausoleum in all of North America: Grant’s Tomb!

Though located in New York City, it was not a place that we visited this trip. However, we DID visit it last year, during our first trip to New York during Spring-Break.

Finishing our tour, we walked down the nearby path to the overlook.

Simply gorgeous.

Look at this view! It’s breathtaking, and you can see as far as the hills of Vermont!

Pictures can’t really do it justice.

And it as at this protected spot that Grant had his last view of the valley… he collapsed here, and it was the last time he was ever outside.

So, to finish the story… did he save his family?

He did. Really his memoirs became the first big “Celebrity Autobiography”, and it reaped in millions of dollars in today’s money for his family, which saved them from financial ruin. Grant had truly won his last battle.

The moral of the story? History is not merely a paragraph in a textbook, or a single object of significance… “Stories”, are history. It is about what individuals did with their goals, and of the meaning and purpose behind every object and decision that is involved. The fabric of that tale continues to be woven… what will your story be like?

 

Content with this full day, we crossed into Vermont!

And it’s official. I think i’m in love with this state.

Those rolling hills look spectacular…

And from there, we bedded down in Rutland, Vermont. The next day, my birthday, would be filled with many surprises, as we would come to the final stretch of our trip!

Can’t wait to share it with you as soon as possible. See you soon!